Grounded For Life 

Big tree came down across this problem. We cleared out the most intrusive parts, but you'll still get tickled by the pines as you work this one.

I have pics that I'll put up later. cool prob though for sure.

Really fun problem, goes well with an Irish Stout.

the last sloper before the horn jug was like a faucet today. mysteriously oozing water out of nowhere...next time!

Might be just a little temperature dependent. Dabbed on the rock on my flash go, going up to the crimp on the upper face. Sent next go from the start. The holds felt fantastic today and conditions were perfect. The last sloper was seeping yesterday, just like what Brian said, but today it was super dry and sticky. Fun problem!!

nice dude! glad you dug it. Did u get on out past curfew around the corner? Its prolly the best climbs in the park for sure.

Haven't gotten on curfew yet. maybe later this week or weekend. It was an early morning session and it was COLD!! Perfect conditions, really.

awesome problem. did some video footage. here it is if you are interested.

SO CLOSE TO FLASHING IT. AGHHH!!!!

Loved this thing - Definitely one of my new favorites at the Dodge.

nice. glad you dug it!

Does it matter which crimp is used to pull the lip on this guy, I used the one to left of the one that people are using in pictures. The one I used is basically straight up from the first sloper that your heel is on when you hit the big horn.

I've done it both ways, seemed pretty similar in difficulty. Pretty sure Sweaty went straight up from the horn on the FA.

i went straight up from the last slopers. There's a picture that shows the hold i used, if that helps.

Thats what I thought, it felt like the harder part was squeezing the seam and slopers before the jug. Didn't really feel like hitting the crimp was hard other than how far away it looks when your hanging there.

There's good pinkie jams in the slots underneath, allowed me to make the left hand bumps more smoothly.

I second the pinky jams. They hurt a bit after a few tries, but they really help.

Low gravity day on this one, Vinny flashed off the couch. He took it all the way to the horn but I did the reach for the good incut in the middle to top out. I think going to the horn could be considered an extension and the true V5.