|New Land (name not known at posting)
The crux is moving through a series of fun dead points (a toehook (under) on the arete is very useful for balance). Groundation is the face with a series of shallow hueco's that affords small crimps and a pinch or two down low. Top out straight up. Very worthy, fun and proud.
From the Obelisk go over the top of the boulder and down into a wash. There will be a wall with two problems on it (the 2nd one going downhill is currently a project). The next route down is Groundation.
At least three pads. The top out is to be reckoned with and I would recommend going up there and brushing holds to become acquainted with it (and get rid of the new sand that is all to likely redeposited itself since the last time someone brushed it).
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 2, 2010
rating: V9 7C PG13
Awesome, awesome problem. A quick campus move and a long deadpoint get things started. The crux is low, but don't underestimate the top even though it looks straightforward.
May 8, 2010
I don't recall campusing from the pinches on the arete. I believe there is a heel hook on the left and you can squeeze a toe with the right for the first move. I found the crux to be the next three moves. At any rate a very nice hard moderate in a place stacked with them.