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Right of the Roof
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Ground Zero 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 1,979
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Approaching the overlap on Ground Zero.
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb positive flakes up and slightly left to a suddenly balancy transition into a series of underclings and edges over a slight bulge. Positive holds lead over the bulge to the base of a right-facing corner system where creative body positioning combined with some stemming lead up the corner and over the top. A short bit of easy slab concludes this fun and varied pitch.

There is an extension to this route called Automatic Static (5.11b), 16 bolts to anchors.


Location 

Located roughly 100' left of a prominent orange streak (Tangerine Dream) and 20' left of a ramp to vertical face (Whammy).


Protection 

8 bolts, ring anchors



Photos of Ground Zero Slideshow Add Photo
Passing the bulge of Ground Zero
Passing the bulge of Ground Zero
finishing up Ground Zero.
finishing up Ground Zero.
Comments on Ground Zero Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

From below the climbing over the small bulge looks like it will be the crux, but big friendly holds makes this easy. The corner above definitely provides the technical difficulties of the climb.

Fun pitch with a variety of techniques.

By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Sep 17, 2009

There's a pretty loose flake on this climb at about mid-height. It's just before the dihedral.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Like Tangerine Dream, I found there to be two cruxes on this route. A balancy move at B3 and pulling out of the right facing corner and up to the last bolt. Slightly harder than Tangerine Dream IMO. Great route.

By Tyler Quesnel
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun fun fun. May seem 11 if you're shorter, for me everything was there and well within reach, I'd give it a 10+. Definitely one of the better climbs for the grade at the quarry (and in that area).

By johnnydanger
From: California
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I just onsighted this route about a week ago. It's for sure harder than any of the 10's at the quarry and right there with the lower 11's. It's a short, but sweet climb with an interesting and memorable finish!