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Easy moves lead to a thin, powerful, and somewhat awkward crux about 15 feet off the ground. After the crux the climbing eases to 5.10. Traverse left on a horizontal about 5/6 of the way up, bypass the original anchors and finish on the upper portion of Quasar to chain anchors.
Though rated 10d in the Watts guide, I thought the crux was more difficult than any 11b I have climbed in the Lower. There is evidence that a hold has recently (after the FA?) broken off at the crux.
Begin in the seam just right of Quasar.
Very small to medium stoppers and cams to a #1 camalot or equivalent provide excellent pro. I placed a crucial (and bomber) #4 DMM wallnut at the crux.
|By Bob Graham|
May 3, 2010
I have not been on many 11b's in the gorge yet but I found the crux move very hard for 11a. I still am not sure what was the best way to do the move as I was able to eek out a sequence 2 different ways, both felt hard for 11a. Great route though!