Ground Zero  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Alan Watts, 1982 Submitted By:  Vernon Stiefel on Jun 17, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Easy moves lead to a thin, powerful, and somewhat awkward crux about 15 feet off the ground. After the crux the climbing eases to 5.10. Traverse left on a horizontal about 5/6 of the way up, bypass the original anchors and finish on the upper portion of Quasar to chain anchors.

Though rated 10d in the Watts guide, I thought the crux was more difficult than any 11b I have climbed in the Lower. There is evidence that a hold has recently (after the FA?) broken off at the crux.

Location 

Begin in the seam just right of Quasar.

Protection 

Very small to medium stoppers and cams to a #1 camalot or equivalent provide excellent pro. I placed a crucial (and bomber) #4 DMM wallnut at the crux.