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The route is 5.10 b/c if you go straight up.
Jackson describes this as "contrived and funky". However, a much mellower and more natural line (5.8) can be found by starting to the right of the first bolt (in the crack for How Ed's Mind Was Lost) and weaving in and out of the bolt line to the top.
Behind the large tree at the base of West Rock. Lower or rap from anchors.
3 bolts plus 1 fixed pin to 2 bolt anchor.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
"Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.
I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable.