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Bierstadt Area
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Ground Control 

Hueco: V11-12 Font: 8A+

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 7'
Consensus:  Hueco: V11-12 Font: 8A+ [details]
FA: Christopher Schulte
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Oct 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Appropriately named ... due to its small stature and since the crux is avoiding hitting the ground or your pads. Begin from a sds matched on the left corner of the sloper rail under the low roof. Heel-toe cam on the sloper rail with your right foot, make a move with your left hand then bust directly out the roof to a good hold at the lip and surmount the bulge up onto the face. The crux is catching the lip, holding it and not invalidating your ascent by dragging your ass or feet on your pad. Be careful with the heel-toe cam, as it is powerful and a perfect way to tear your LCL.

If this problem were taller and finished with these moves, it would be worthy of more stars and people would fly across oceans to climb it. As it is, it is a lowball 5 foot tall problem with some cool gut-busting moves under a low roof that pulls out onto a slab ... something to try at the end of the day, on a spotty-weather day or while your friends get a few burns in on Bierstadt, etc. It's certainly hard and may be fun, it's just not much to look at and few will be inspired by it.

Location 

Ground Control is on the same boulder as The Ladder, but it's on the opposite side facing the willows and just right of a large rain shelter cave that is just right of Bierstadt. Armed with these directions, you can't miss it.

Protection 

An Organic pad or two to protect your back.


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By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 17, 2010

This problem is actually on the backside of the Ladder Boulder. Just next door to the Bierstadt Boulder.