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Ground Control to Gumby One 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Braden Peters, 2000
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 9, 2002
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Steeeeeeeeeep pitch.


A variation to the white dike route was installed about the same time as the dike, and it runs to the same anchor at the top of the dike. Chase the bolts on reasonable, solid, greyish stone. Sets up an easy TR for the dike if you are so inclined. Take a brush along.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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"I'm NOT a monkey!!"
"I'm NOT a monkey!!"
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 9, 2002

Right or left of the Dike?

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 9, 2002

On the right, it drops straight to the ground from the dike anchor.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 10, 2002

Braden Peters was the guy who bolted and climbed this line, Richard. Have a nice day!

By Braden Peters
May 7, 2003

I named the route Ground Control to Gumby One, thanks for posing it. Braden

By GeoffElson
Jul 11, 2008

This route is dirty, with some loose stuff, but actually offers really fun and a bit stout, overhanging, roof moves that one normally doesn't find on 5.9s.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 3, 2009

Very fun. Only 5.9? A couple pieces of chain would improve the anchor since this will no doubt get traffic when folks are in the area.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

If this is 5.9, the first pitch of Wild Child is 5.2.

Getting off the ground was the technical crux, but it's dirty and steep all the way up. And don't blow the 3rd clip...

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I agree with Roth. Harder than 9 and harder than the first pitch of Wild Child.

By Mitch Watkins
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2011

Felt a lot harder than 5.9.