Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cave Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dwarf Toss S,TR 
Grotto Monkey S,TR 

Grotto Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting to the 2nd
Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the leftmost route of the four Cave Route climbs, and heads straight up the face of the cave to the top anchor.

Stick clipping the first bolt is probably a good idea, as the not so soft talus floor of The Cave probably isn't very nice to land in.

Head up using all your strength through pumpy overhanging reachy moves using large jugs and anything else that helps.

You will probably hate yourself for top roping any Cave Wall route, as it's overhung enough to make getting yourself back on the wall a pumpy 5.10 move.

Climbing gets easier as you head up, but not much!


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


Location 

Furthest left route on the top of the Cave Wall in the Pit.



Comments on Grotto Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By ShaunG
From: Petaluma/SF, CA
Dec 27, 2009

Awesome moves on this route. It would be classic if it was longer and the start wasn't so exclusive, but the movements are really cool right off the ground. Like it's sister route to the right, the start is very height dependent, but I'm sure there are a million different ways to wiggle through it. Plan on leading this route next visit.

By JustBrit
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 22, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

Crux at the 3rd draw... If you blow it, belay better be paying attention!!!