A high point on the lengthy granite ridge above the Oberalp pass, composed of giant, near-vertical granite slabs lined up one behind the next. The south/southeast face of the Gross Schijen gets plenty of sun until very late in the day.
See general description for climbing at the Oberalp pass. Use the east-west trail running above the Lutersee to get as close as possible to the southeast pillar, then hike/scramble up to the base.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gross Schijen:
Direct south ridge 5.10c Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For Gross Schijen
Direct south ridge 5.10c International : Europe : ... : Gross Schijen
A great route up the prominent south pillar. A good topo can be found in the plaisir ost guidebook.P1: 5c+, perhaps the very best pitch of the route, with a brilliant 30 meter flake from the ground to the anchor (also makes finding the base of the climb very straightforward)P2 6b+, one short, strenuous layback sequence gives the grade, can easily be aidedP3: 6a, up left into a gully, then out on and up a slab with micro crimpers P4: 5b, nice, steep terrain on good holds to anchor underneath...[more] Browse More Classics in International