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Gross Schijen

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Direct south ridge T,S 

Gross Schijen  

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Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 46.6663, 8.6383 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 135
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: South ridge of the Gross Schijen, as seen from nea...


A high point on the lengthy granite ridge above the Oberalp pass, composed of giant, near-vertical granite slabs lined up one behind the next. The south/southeast face of the Gross Schijen gets plenty of sun until very late in the day.

The area sees limited traffic.

Getting There 

See general description for climbing at the Oberalp pass. Use the east-west trail running above the Lutersee to get as close as possible to the southeast pillar, then hike/scramble up to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Gross Schijen
Pitch five of the direct south ridge, 5c

Direct south ridge 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Gross Schijen
A great route up the prominent south pillar. A good topo can be found in the plaisir ost guidebook.P1: 5c+, perhaps the very best pitch of the route, with a brilliant 30 meter flake from the ground to the anchor (also makes finding the base of the climb very straightforward)P2 6b+, one short, strenuous layback sequence gives the grade, can easily be aidedP3: 6a, up left into a gully, then out on and up a slab with micro crimpers P4: 5b, nice, steep terrain on good holds to anchor underneath...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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