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Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face

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Niedermann / Anderruethi  T,S 

Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face  


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Location: 46.6009, 8.4267 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 25, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn

Description 

The Gross Bielenhorn, with its very impressive southwest face, is a fantastic destination for full-day routes in the Furka area.

The face is in the shade until fairly late in the morning, but compensates with sunlight until very late in the day. Given the elevation, exposure and route length, it is a destination best suited for the high-summer months.

The base of the wall is at around 2900 meters above sea level. There is a moderate itinerary of routes of around 400 meters. Descent is by abseil.

Traffic here is, in general, moderate. On weekends during the main climbing season, one is seldom alone.

Accommodation can be found at the nearby Sidelen hut, or at one of the hotels on the Furka pass.


Getting There 

The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass. Follow the trail to the Sidelen-hut. Pass the hut and head north over the glacier, with the southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn on your right. Crampons and an ice axe are highly recommended, particularly for the last, steep incline to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face
Daniele H on the wicked second pitch of the Niedermann-Anderrüthi

Niedermann / Anderruethi 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Gross Bielenhorn - Southwe...
The rock quality is superb, the climbing varied and sustained. The pitches go at 5c, 6a, 6a, 4c, 5c, 5c, 6a+, 5a, 6a.From the base, follow the crack system up and right to gain a large ledge and the first belay (careful, there is another route up the face to the left of the crack system early in the first pitch).The crux pitch, offering the most brilliant climbing in this route (and perhaps in the entire region), is the second one: a near-vertical 45 meter corner. Note that a different route a...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face Slideshow Add Photo
Chli Bielenhorn on the right, Gross Bielenhorn in the middle, and the Galenstock on the upper left
BETA PHOTO: Chli Bielenhorn on the right, Gross Bielenhorn in ...
Gross Bielenhorn southwest face. Taken in the autumn.
Gross Bielenhorn southwest face. Taken in the autu...

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