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The Gross Bielenhorn, with its very impressive southwest face, is a fantastic destination for full-day routes in the Furka area.
The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass. Follow the trail to the Sidelen-hut. Pass the hut and head north over the glacier, with the southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn on your right. Crampons and an ice axe are highly recommended, particularly for the last, steep incline to the base of the wall.
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Featured Route For Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face
Niedermann / Anderruethi 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Europe : Switzerland : ... : Gross Bielenhorn - Southwe...
The rock quality is superb, the climbing varied and sustained. The pitches go at 5c, 6a, 6a, 4c, 5c, 5c, 6a+, 5a, 6a.From the base, follow the crack system up and right to gain a large ledge and the first belay (careful, there is another route up the face to the left of the crack system early in the first pitch).The crux pitch, offering the most brilliant climbing in this route (and perhaps in the entire region), is the second one: a near-vertical 45 meter corner. Note that a different route a...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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