Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face
BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn
The Gross Bielenhorn, with its very impressive southwest face, is a fantastic destination for full-day routes in the Furka area.
The face is in the shade until fairly late in the morning, but compensates with sunlight until very late in the day. Given the elevation, exposure and route length, it is a destination best suited for the high-summer months.
The base of the wall is at around 2900 meters above sea level. There is a moderate itinerary of routes of around 400 meters. Descent is by abseil.
Traffic here is, in general, moderate. On weekends during the main climbing season, one is seldom alone.
Accommodation can be found at the nearby Sidelen hut, or at one of the hotels on the Furka pass.
The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass. Follow the trail to the Sidelen-hut. Pass the hut and head north over the glacier, with the southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn on your right. Crampons and an ice axe are highly recommended, particularly for the last, steep incline to the base of the wall.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gross Bielenhorn - Southwest face
Niedermann / Anderruethi 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Europe
: ... : Gross Bielenhorn - Southwe...
The rock quality is superb, the climbing varied and sustained. The pitches go at 5c, 6a, 6a, 4c, 5c, 5c, 6a+, 5a, 6a.From the base, follow the crack system up and right to gain a large ledge and the first belay (careful, there is another route up the face to the left of the crack system early in the first pitch).The crux pitch, offering the most brilliant climbing in this route (and perhaps in the entire region), is the second one: a near-vertical 45 meter corner. Note that a different route a...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: Chli Bielenhorn on the right, Gross Bielenhorn in ...
Gross Bielenhorn southwest face. Taken in the autu...
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