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i. High E
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50-50 T 
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Ants' Line T 
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Directississima T 
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 
Ent Line T,TR 
First Trapps Chimney T 
Groovy T 
High Exposure T 
In The Groove T 
In the Silly T 
Insuhlation T 
Lichen Forty Winks T 
Nose Drops T 
Obstacle Delusion T 
Ridicullissima T 
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Sleepwalk T 
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Teeny Face T 
Throne, The T 
Ursula T 

Groovy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Bob & Jane Culp, 1963
Page Views: 2,342
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Jeff nearing the top of Groovy

Description 

I think the old guide book put this at 5.8 and the new one has it at 5.8+. If you have trouble hand jamming and don't know how to smear, it will feel more like 5.9.

P1: Follow the left-arching finger crack past a roof and up to a belay ledge. There is an anchor just before the roof but don't stop there, it's cheating! Finish by turning the corner and heading up to another set of fixed anchor. 5.8+, 70'.


Location 

40' right of Bonnie's Roof at a left-facing corner capped by a roof.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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Groovy
BETA PHOTO: Groovy
Into the 10a variation.
Into the 10a variation.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2014
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I have no trouble hand jamming or with corners, but I still count Groovy as 5.9, as does at least one guidebook. The initial corner is quite straightforward, and is not the crux. Moving up into the traverse, and getting across it, is steep (and awkward) climbing on a few not-so-great feet, until you've moved past the sling salad. These moves add up to 5.9.

Carefully inspect the sling salad rap station above P1: there are sharp edges in the constriction that's slung, and over the years I've seen it saw through a few slings. Hopefully the Preserve will add bolts here eventually, as this is an objectively more dangerous rap station than many others.

By Michael G
Sep 9, 2008

Hand jamming isn't necessary...I just lay-backed across the overhang to the outside corner. Clip the sling nest and swing over!

By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Laybacking is the way to go... jamming it is tough. Finishing on the Second pitch of Ursula makes it a well rounded nice classic climb.

By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Sep 28, 2009

Every time I do this route my #3 finds a home and I'm pretty certain that I could get a #4 to go in the traverse crack with little trouble.

There's a really good 10a variation with decent gear that goes straight through the roof. You get all of the crux moves of Groovy plus another 10 or so feet of interesting climbing after the Groovy crux instead of the 5.3 finish after the traverse. Just be sure to appropriately sling your gear under the roof to avoid rope drag.

By Larry S
Aug 2, 2010

I'd say it's at least a 9. Felt harder than both ant's line and directissima. Pro is very good though. You can definitely sew it up if you find you're in too deep.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did the 10 variation; once you finish the traverse, head straight up over the roof (go right and then up). It's juggy and fun.

By analogical
Oct 11, 2010

I would agree with the 5.8 rating, and it's not even hard 5.8. Rating Groovy, which has one solid 5.8 handjam move, as harder than Double Crack, say, or Modern Times, seems strange to me.

Groovy Direct, as my friends have come to call the "10a variation," seems more like 9+ at the most, but I'm not going to argue as vehemently. I'm curious, though; have the people calling it 10a led it? I have. It's G, by the way, if you find the right placement.

By doligo
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agree with Analogical - one of the easier .8s in the Gunks. You can stem the whole thing up and over, even the traverse if you have flexible hips.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route for the aspiring 5.8 leader. Gear is plentiful and stemming the corner, eases the grade back quite a bit.

By jdrago
From: Rosendale, NY
Jun 25, 2014

I agree with 5.8+ rating if not 5.9. If Bonnies gets a 5.9 then this is 5.9. I felt this was on par or slightly harder than Bonnies Roof but there is gear everywhere.

By losbill
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great stemming corner with a thoughtful moment or two getting things sorted out under the roof before escaping left, up and out. Definitely one of those pitches that leaves you wishing it were longer!

Regarding grading wouldn't it be more useful to add your contribution under the "Your rating" rather than expressing your opinion only as a comment? Everyone's experience is different and the consensus opinion, at least for me, is a valuable data point.

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The "consensus grade" above has just been changed to be the median of the "your rating" contributions - so yes, enter away! Then go over to Modern Times, High E, etc, and enter away there ...

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tat after the traverse is gone. This would be a great climb for someone working into the 8's. It's short, protects well and stances are good (crux is a bit burly...work out your gear prior to making the moves).