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Groovy Guru
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 42
votes
Routes in Commonwealth
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"Otto Mattock" T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ancient Squamish Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fanfare for the Common Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Groovy Guru T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hungry, Hungry Hippos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's Not Easy Being Green T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Partners in Grime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pop-Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rick’s Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smells Like Fir T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stihl Cleaning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tastes Like Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total StinkEye, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Henshaw, Chris Small 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,088 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on Jul 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Start under a small roof with a very positive left jug above it. Lock off, pull up and start into the seam. The gear in the thin is thinner than it looks from the ground, I didn't find a place for anything as big as a yellow Metolius until higher up. Small wires, small cams.
Distinct crux mid-height as you're passing a horizontal break with your feet. It's steeper and the locks are pretty thin. Like the rest of the crag, there are lots of rests everywhere including immediately before and after the crux.
Distinct crux mid-height as you're passing a horizontal break with your feet. It's steeper and the locks are pretty thin. Like the rest of the crag, there are lots of rests everywhere including immediately before and after the crux.
Location
The only route that starts below the head-height roof on the lower part of the crag. The thin seam is fairly distinctive.
Protection
Small gear from purple Metolius/green C3 to #1 Camalot. Doubles in tips/fingers pieces. Chains at the top.
Takes good small gear. I fiddled with small wires my first time up this, but climbed it again last weekend and didn't waste my time with any nuts, took solid cams at comforting intervals.
Takes good small gear. I fiddled with small wires my first time up this, but climbed it again last weekend and didn't waste my time with any nuts, took solid cams at comforting intervals.
Photos
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