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 ADVANCED
The Egg
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracked Egg T 
Go Van Gogh T 
Groovin' T 
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 
Jesus or Jeopardy S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leggo My Eggo S 
Lowe Blow T 
Old Peculier T 
Over Easy T 
Runnel Chunnel T 
Variety Delight T 
Windjammer T 

Groovin' 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ellison, Noble '82
Page Views: 2,376
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Groovin'

Description 

Groovin' is on the far right side of the Egg. Look for small roof that angles up and right, turning into a right facing dihedral. This route isn't very obvious, but can be picked out by looking for the fixed pins.

Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton.

One rope rap (60m rope) to get back down. This route is pretty unique (beginning is really good), but the rock is ricey and there is quite a bit of vegetation.


Protection 

4 pins, 1 bolt, small gear



Photos of Groovin' Slideshow Add Photo
Steve is Groovin'
Steve is Groovin'
1) Leggo My Eggo  2) Variety Delight  3) Just Say No to Crack  4) Huevos Rancheros  5) Lowe Blowe  6) Jesus or Jeopardy  7) Groovin'
BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...
Starting to groove
Starting to groove
Groovin
Groovin
Groovin, the Egg
BETA PHOTO: Groovin, the Egg
Great climb
Great climb
Comments on Groovin' Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005

I love this route and it deserves at least 2 stars!

Stay right near the top for better rock and climbing (same finish as Go Van Gogh).

These routes could really use a chain anchor. The higher tree anchor is dieing! I have an unused hand-drill - anyone want to mentor me on how to put in a good anchor there?

By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought I counted 5 pitons (I could definitely be wrong). A very fun route, with very fun moves. I agree with Stan, and stayed right at the end where a #2 Camalot helped protect the exit move. Take measures to reduce rope drag. After doing both pitches of Variety Delight, this route was a fun relaxing finish to the day.

By Timmy Fearn
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I definitely counted 5 pins as well... a good fun one. The exposure due to the drop off to the right was better than coffee.

By Ben Folsom
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Wow!! totally classic. Unique and interesting, great climb for a moderate in LCC.

By steve santora
Jul 29, 2009

Great route I like it every time I do it. thanks Les....I linked it up to Rodeo Girls in Bondage. Definately the best way to do it. makes a great outing try it. Steve

By df1mk
Jun 23, 2010

Fun varied route. There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 27, 2011

This route is really cool and interesting. Probably would be worth 3 stars if not for some of the poor rock quality in spots. I found this stout for a 5-8+ lead...even old school rating. I thought Satan's Corner was easier, but then again maybe I'm just not great at slab footwork.

By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sep 12, 2013

Climbed this yesterday. There are 5 pins plus the bolt, although one pin was pretty hidden and I found it only after my hand hit it while underclinging. There's also lots of dirt and pretty yellow flowers in the cracks so bring your nut tool on lead to clear out a couple placements. Spicy lead. Me likey.