Groovin' at the Beach
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Pitch 1 - Start up a short sandy face to reach a thin seam which leads up into better cracks. Near the top of the pitch a sandy, chossy, offwidth bulge presents the crux. 5.11 PG13. (The gear is all there, it is quite chossy rock though, thus the PG-13 safety rating). Belay on a sloping ledge and two bolt anchor. Approx. 100'
Pitch 2 - Climb left to reach better cracks and better rock. Handcracks lead to a jagged crack going left. More handcracks lead up a corner to a large ledge and belay from natural gear. 5.10
Approx. 100' (after the rock on the first pitch, this pitch is a huge relief).
To descend, walk left across the ledge to where the ground meets the ledge. You will walk past an unknown route up a dihedral, and the base of "Life During Wartime"
This route is located on the same wall as "Life During Wartime". There is a huge pillar formation forming the nose of the buttress (La Escoba de Dios). The route is located almost directly below this pillar, just a little bit to climbers left. To approach, follow same directions for "Life During Wartime". Walk up the wash and up talus to the base. There is a cairned trail.
2 sets of cams from very small to #4 camalot sized.
A set of stoppers... Don't forget the stoppers!