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Birth Canal 
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Groove Machine  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 21, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Groove Machine
Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>


Boulder to left-facing flake. layback this till it ends. Crank up and right, then step back left toward bolt then crank to top.


Between Birth Canal and Chunks, below left facing flaring flake. Behind small tree.


Standard rack. no anchors.

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By P. Sully
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

One of my favorite routes on this wall. FA Paul Delapp/Paul Sullivan 1993

thin pro at bottom till you can sink a good #6 stopper. layback up flake to stance. Climb up & slightly right to gain jugs/flakes(crux). Step left till under bolt on upper face. climb straight up past lone bolt to top. 65'

This route is mistakenly called Bozooka in the Horst guide.

By Nick Brehm
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jan 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

After initial layback, cool committing mantle move over less than stellar gear. Almost got suckered out left to what I think is Boozooka below the bulge 15ft below the bolt, but glad I bailed right to the jug flakes on Chunks Direct before traversing back to gain the the bolt.

Could be a cool var to go left and avoid the flakes?

By P. Sully
Jan 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

If you go left & avoid the flakes it turns into 5.11 climbing with no/very little gear. You essentially end up on Bozooka. we TR'd this variation but never led it this way.

The classic "groove move" goes straight up till you hit the jugs. Kinda a heel-hook reach thing. I remember good yellow TCU here w/ a pink tricam back-up if you want it. hand traversing right to the jugs on Chunks Direct is only slightly easier and this route often gets led that way.

at the top you can also continue up the shambly corner instead of stepping left and clipping the bolt; easier but not as fun.