Groove Connection  5.8 PG13

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 380 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Mike Reardon, Jeff Heveron, Leigha Dickens 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mike Reardon on Jul 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Groove Connection from the top of the 1st pitch

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Unlike its fun face climbing partner to the right (North by Northwest), this route navigates different water grooves over mostly gear protected terrain. There are a few runouts but they are over 5.6 or easier terrain.
P1: 5.4 200 ft: Take the easy slab into an obvious bowl 40 feet up and 40 feet left of NBNW trending up and left. Gear belay just above the small tree, about 30 feet above and left the NBNW 2nd pitch,
P2: 5.7 70 ft: Take the obvious and fun watergroove past a bolt and tcu's to a large belay ledge with a double bolted anchor. You can put a #1 cam in a slot above the watergroove to protect the 2nd's swing
P3: 5.8 (5.6R) 120 ft: From the belay, make the 'groove connection' to the left water groove passing some tcu's and a bolt. It is a bit run out to the next bolt but great groovin. Continue past gear and some lichen to a 2 bolt belay

Location 

40 ft left of NBNW

Protection 

Up to a #2, TCU's are great, 3 protection bolts total. 2 ropes are needed to get down
For rappel: Rap to P2 anchors, then to the P1 anchors of NBNW.