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Routes Sorted
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Condor 
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Grommet 
Imperial 
Scratchin' for the Loomer 
Steel Reserve 
Total Ramon 
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Grommet 

5.11-

   
1,124 page views
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Sept. '08
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Drew Bedford on Sep 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Your rating: -none- [change]
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Grommet 2) Total Ramon 3) Scratchin' for the Lo...

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Description 

This little shredder climbs patina and pinches past four bolts to a two bolt belay. Not that the climbing goes that way, but the left arete and gully are off route. Props and thanks to Kelley Bethea for being a big part of this route's creation.


Location 

Starts just left/uphill of Total Ramon.


Protection 

All bolts



Photos of Grommet Slideshow Add Photo
Lewis 3/4's up The Grommet 5.11-. Fun climbing! Deceptively difficult.

Lewis 3/4's up The Grommet 5.11-. Fun climbing! De...

Lewis at the base of The Grommet 5.11- preparing to lead the route.

Lewis at the base of The Grommet 5.11- preparing t...

Lewis at the main crux section of The Grommet 5.11-, he is getting ready to move off a crappy, small left hand sloper to a bomber right hand sidepull!

Lewis at the main crux section of The Grommet 5.11...

Lewis gaining the good sidepull after the crux on The Grommet 5.11-. The difficulty begins to less after this point up to the anchors. Fun move gaining this sidepull!

Lewis gaining the good sidepull after the crux on ...

Lewis one bolt below the anchors on The Grommet 5.11-

Lewis one bolt below the anchors on The Grommet 5....

Solid anchors on The Grommet 5.11-

BETA PHOTO: Solid anchors on The Grommet 5.11-


Comments on Grommet Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2008

It's also the approach to Steel Reserve.

By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 17, 2008

Well for historical clarity, "Steel Reserve" is actually pitch 2 of Total Ramon. So that would be the true start. Not that you can't start wherever you want. I did notice that at some point there was some rock fall at the start of the upper pitch, so coming in from Total Ramon may now be less appealing.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.11-

You could totally sling a shrub instead of clipping that 4th bolt!!

By marryellenman
From: Midvale, UT
Aug 15, 2011

This was a fun climb I started out left on the arette then stepped right to the first bolt then climbed up through to the third bolt and traversed left to the arette doing it this way was about 5.10 and fun.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a

Fun route! I found the crux to be between the 3rd & 4th bolts. There is a sharp right hand crimp and a higher left hand sloper you need to move off to gain a solid right hand sidepull. Use a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen some rope drag.

If top roping the route take note of the edge a little lower than the anchors where the rope will drag across. To help lessen this be sure to clip a directional or two to minimize the rope rubbing across this point.

Bolts and anchors are all in excellent shape!

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a

There are 4-bolts to a chain anchor.