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|Submitted By:||Michael Schneiter on Oct 2, 2008|
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|Comments on Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Beh
Aug 21, 2009
Congrats on the new routes on the Mudwall.
The late Roy Poteet and I made a foray on the Mudwall in 1984, looking to repeat an old Kor route. Roy had a vague verbal description of the route from Kor. We climbed up some crack system about a pitch and a half. The entire crack and surface of the wall was covered with about a half inch of caked on, dried "mud". When you tried to clean it, it exploded into a cloud of dust. I wanted goggles and respirator. We bailed but I remember thinking that there was some good rock underneath the dirt.
It's very cool you guys have found a way to climb some decent sounding routes on this wall. Any chance the big walls above the Glenwood Falls ice routes have decent potential? If so there is any absurd amount of big routes to do in Glenwood Canyon.
By chris van leuven
Aug 24, 2009
Thanks! I love climbing up there.
"The entire crack and surface of the wall was covered with about a half inch of caked on, dried "mud". When you tried to clean it, it exploded into a cloud of dust. I wanted goggles and respirator. "
Yup. That's how it feels to climb there -- at first. Some routes are clean from the get-go, as in my (our) first route, Orangina (right of Bear Paw, one of Kor's lines). Horse and Pony was dirty and covered in loose blocks and we cleaned it (just the two of us) for several days spread out over several weeks. . We worked hard cleaning that line, which got pretty clean overall, but is still a tad dusty in a spot or two. This new line got a lot more attention to cleaning. Plus, we had a posse working on it, so we really cleaned it up good. Real good. And, yes, the rock underneath the silt is great. We haven't taken any big falls on small camming units to test this theory, but it seems right.
"Any chance the big walls above the Glenwood Falls ice routes have decent potential?"
Yes. Definitely. Glenwood Canyon is stacked, and the possibilities are endless. I can't wait to put up many, many more routes in and around that area. Kor calls Glenwood Canyon a destination climbing area -- I agree. Course, I love a good adventure. As do my faithful climbing partners Mike Schneiter, Josh Gross and others. I think having a good sense of adventure is key for enjoying the great climbs in Glenwood Canyon.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 26, 2009
|Nice Chris. There is a lot of "mud" up there but there's also a lot of amazing rock. There's a ton of potential in Glenwood Canyon but there's a whole lot of choss too. Michael Kennedy and Harvey Carter climbed a 2-3 pitch line in the quartzite above Glenwood Falls. Sounded okay. So, yes, there's some climbing potential there but nothing to quit your job for.|
By Dougald MacDonald
Dec 7, 2009
|A story about the new route Stardust (5.11+, six pitches), completed by Jeff Achey and Scott Norris in September 09, has been posted at Colorado MoJo: coloradomountainjournal.com/?p...|