From the base of the Grizzly Lake scramble, follow the right(west) side of the creek up as far as you can.
It starts off as easy 4th/5th class and soon becomes ~5.6 lower angle slab. We were ~15' to the right of the waterfall this entire pitch (P1) Once this becomes steep (and at a break in the slope), start to head to the right towards a fairly obvious block with 2 cracks on it. (P2) After climbing over a lot of choss, reach a fairly clean vertical off width.(P3, 5.10, ~80')There is a left crack also, but we followed the right vertical one. We had to french free a few moves on this section. Go up, over, and then scramble over some boulders to the left for the next pitch. From here climb around the big rock and enter a squeeze chimney (5.9+) and then a second squeeze chimney. (P4) After this there is an easy but chossy scramble to the lake (P5). Walk off.
Pitches 3+4 are good and will be great if cleaned up some more. The view of the waterfall and the valley below are awesome for the entire climb.
Single rack, .2-#5. Big gear (#4/5) is helpful for P3 & P4. Lots of small gear or nuts for P1 (however its easy and can be run out)
Grizzly falls from start of the third pitch
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 2-5
BETA PHOTO: overview from the approach
BETA PHOTO: pitch 3 from the top of pitch 2
Sep 10, 2012
So did you actually speak to any long time climbers in the Humboldt/Trinity area to see if you actually did the FA of this? (Just because there is no guidebook doesn't mean it hasn't been done.)Climbers have been going to the trinities for years now, I would be surprised if it took until last week to climb this route.
Sep 11, 2012
Maybe we were not the first ascenders .... although the loose rock, plants, and dirt made it feel like an FA! No disrespect was meant towards those who have climbed in the Trinities for years. These people have not been the easiest to find.
|By Rick Shull|
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Sep 11, 2012
Try asking Tom. He's usually at Far North on Wednesdays when the weather isn't good enough outside. He knows about most of the routes in the Trinities.
|By Matthias Holladay|
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 11, 2012
When I was in the area, I never heard tell of anyone doing this. It was one of those that we'd scoped, but never got to...Way to go!
Sep 12, 2012
Right on, my purpose wasn't to scold anyone. Just didn't want any disrespect thrown toward anyone. I'm stoked you all got out and hopped on something unknown and obscure and finished it.