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 ADVANCED
Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrow Head S 
Captain Cheese Dog S 
Flatus S 
Grizzly Crack T 
Indian Springs S 
Out of the Blue TR 
RP 4 Me T,S 
Sundaze S 
Super Thin T 
Zephyr S 

Grizzly Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Brad Brothers
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: johnnyrocks on Aug 20, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Drawing of Grizzly Crack.

Description 

Climb the face next to the right facing wall. The move through the wide crack about 45' up is 5.5. Or you can start on the knobby face off to the right, climb up next to a left facing wall and do a lie back move through the right hand crack. This move is 5.6.

The climb goes low angle for a bit after these moves. Climb the low angle up to the steeper section of the wall and climb up the obvious vertical crack. The 5.8 crux is in this section of the climb and you can get good pro in the crack to protect the crux move.

At the top of the crack is a left leaning slot. Climb the left leaning slot to the top. Not as many Pro placements in this section but protectable and no runout.

Location 

This climb is off to the right hand side of the lower tier. Look for a big pine tree off to the right of the lower tier and hike up to the base of the wall behind the pine tree.

To get off the top, go left to the Upper Puppy anchors and rap to the top of the middle tier. Then rap off the Pappy Smear anchors to the left hand side of the lower tier and then 3rd class off the left end of the lower tier. You will need a 60M rope to rap.

Protection 

Cams .75"-3.5" 1-2 each. No bolts on this climb or fixed anchor at the top.


Photos of Grizzly Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Right facing corner is in the shadow  left of center. Straight up from the right facing corner is the vertical crack with the 5.7+ crux.
BETA PHOTO: Right facing corner is in the shadow left of cent...

Comments on Grizzly Crack Add Comment
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By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

fun long climb.
I'd say 5.8 for the upper crack to small roof feature. protects well.