Located on the East shoulder of Bear Mountain. Very sunny, faces south east. 230 foot crag, mostly lower angle slab. Rock type is similar to rumney like schist. This area is very secluded, in fact there is no obvious trail into the base. Make no mistake, this crag is in the deep woods, we almost got carried away by the black flies. You'll need a map and compass, and the skills to use them to get in and out of the Grizzly Cliff.
You may encounter wildlife that the Dept. of Environmental Protection denies exists. We almost called this the Cougar Crag. Nothing burries a deer half in the ground but big cats.
History: I have talked to some folks about climbing here. Bill "Sully" Sullivan, Don Pelletier, Bob Blake, and Randy Noble have explored here. Mike Cox and I were pleasently surprised at what we found. It was a fun diversion, but it's not nearly as classic as central Connecticut's traprock.
Take Undermountain Trail until you see a sign that says "Paradise Group Area" to the right. Take this right and in .3 miles you hit a group camp site. Follow the signs for the water source, cross the little stream and head north along the ridge (you can tell you're kind of on the edge of this plateau). Eventually you'll hit the top of the crag to your right. To get to the base/gully routes scramble down the gully.
I'd suggest just whacking back to the AT from the bottom.
From the lowest point or toe of the butress, climb strait up a 30' slab (no gear). Climb over some loose flakes (thought provoking) to your first gear. Follow features to a crack past a fixed pin (unnecessary) to the bushy overlap. Belay here off gear at a decent stance (5.6+ 120'). Pitch two: Climb strait up, following fun face climbing past 2 fixed pins (unnecessary) to the top. Belay on top, off gear (5.6 100' or so)....[more]Browse More Classics in CT
I was hiking around the cliff the other day and noticed two bolted (or partially bolted) sport routes on some of the short steeper walls in the gully. One had three bolts/hangers, the other had four bolts, the last one without hanger. Due to the relatively unknown nature of this crag, and the effort it takes to get to this particular spot, I feel as if these are known only to the equippers and myself haha, would like to get on them though, beautiful setting.
I'll try to get some photos up soon. It'd be a nice snowshoe.
Also, there is a fairly easy approach to reach the top of the cliff in 30ish minutes at a brief pace. But then you must get to the base (another 5 of scrambling). I can post directions if anyone wants them.
My friend and I went back up here a couple of weeks ago. Didn't climb the main face but did one of the sport climbs. I'll post directions (to the top of the cliff) here that take about 30-40 minutes. The hike back (just bushwhacking to the AT from the bottom) was a lot quicker and easier.
GULLY ROUTES (L-R):
1. 5.10+ish - 3 bolts to anchors, rap rings are kind of sketchy cold shut deals with some sharp edges. I clipped two ovalwires up there to rap off instead. A fun route, was a little dirty as expected, decent rock quality. Slightly overhanging face climbing.
2. Grade Unknown but looks easier - 4 bolts (I think) to the anchor, the 4th bolt doesn't have a hanger, same rap ring setup. Kind of in this dihedral thing to a slabby finish, rock doesn't look super good.
All in all a cool spot, but I'd probably only go back to do the longer routes. But if you go out to do those, why not do the sport climb too. Unusual for such a climb to be way out in this random gully.