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Grizzly Cliff

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Grizzly Cliff  


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Location: 42.03623, -73.43716 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,823
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Shove on Apr 29, 2009
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: The first bolted line up the gully.

Description 

Located on the East shoulder of Bear Mountain. Very sunny, faces south east. 230 foot crag, mostly lower angle slab. Rock type is similar to rumney like schist. This area is very secluded, in fact there is no obvious trail into the base. Make no mistake, this crag is in the deep woods, we almost got carried away by the black flies. You'll need a map and compass, and the skills to use them to get in and out of the Grizzly Cliff.

You may encounter wildlife that the Dept. of Environmental Protection denies exists. We almost called this the Cougar Crag. Nothing burries a deer half in the ground but big cats.

History: I have talked to some folks about climbing here. Bill "Sully" Sullivan, Don Pelletier, Bob Blake, and Randy Noble have explored here. Mike Cox and I were pleasently surprised at what we found. It was a fun diversion, but it's not nearly as classic as central Connecticut's traprock.

Getting There 

New: Best way to this is to take the trail from the partking lot on Rte 41, until it begins to trend back south and then strike out northwest. You may see some cairns and/or red blazes, but these may bring you quite close to the backs of some private homes. On the other hand, if you aim closer in to the steeping side of the mountain, you will hit some yellow blazes and AT boundary markers. Contour north and follow the second drainage up and into the big gully. The start of the climbs is well up-slope and it is easy to go too far. - Roger McKee


Old: Take Undermountain Trail until you see a sign that says "Paradise Group Area" to the right. Take this right and in .3 miles you hit a group camp site. Follow the signs for the water source, cross the little stream and head north along the ridge (you can tell you're kind of on the edge of this plateau). Eventually you'll hit the top of the crag to your right. To get to the base/gully routes scramble down the gully.

I'd suggest just whacking back to the AT from the bottom.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grizzly Cliff:
Green Grizzly   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Browse More Classics in Grizzly Cliff

Featured Route For Grizzly Cliff
topo

Green Grizzly 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CT : Northwest : Grizzly Cliff
From the lowest point or toe of the butress, climb strait up a 30' slab (no gear). Climb over some loose flakes (thought provoking) to your first gear. Follow features to a crack past a fixed pin (unnecessary) to the bushy overlap. Belay here off gear at a decent stance (5.6+ 120'). Pitch two: Climb strait up, following fun face climbing past 2 fixed pins (unnecessary) to the top. Belay on top, off gear (5.6 100' or so)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Grizzly Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Lookin' Up
BETA PHOTO: Lookin' Up
Old photo of climbers on Green Grizzly face, taken from across Rte 41, at the outlet to Fisher's Pond
Old photo of climbers on Green Grizzly face, taken...
The start - perched to the right of the gully. You have to scramble a bit to get here.
BETA PHOTO: The start - perched to the right of the gully. You...
Grizzly Cliff updated 3/2014
BETA PHOTO: Grizzly Cliff updated 3/2014

Comments on Grizzly Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rock Cricket
From: Norfolk, CT
Dec 5, 2012
I was hiking around the cliff the other day and noticed two bolted (or partially bolted) sport routes on some of the short steeper walls in the gully. One had three bolts/hangers, the other had four bolts, the last one without hanger. Due to the relatively unknown nature of this crag, and the effort it takes to get to this particular spot, I feel as if these are known only to the equippers and myself haha, would like to get on them though, beautiful setting.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 6, 2012
I would love to see some photos of this cliff, both the tall and the steep shorter stuff!
By Rock Cricket
From: Norfolk, CT
Feb 19, 2013
I'll try to get some photos up soon. It'd be a nice snowshoe.

Also, there is a fairly easy approach to reach the top of the cliff in 30ish minutes at a brief pace. But then you must get to the base (another 5 of scrambling). I can post directions if anyone wants them.
By Rock Cricket
From: Norfolk, CT
Jun 24, 2013
My friend and I went back up here a couple of weeks ago. Didn't climb the main face but did one of the sport climbs. I'll post directions (to the top of the cliff) here that take about 30-40 minutes. The hike back (just bushwhacking to the AT from the bottom) was a lot quicker and easier.

GULLY ROUTES (L-R):

1. 5.10+ish - 3 bolts to anchors, rap rings are kind of sketchy cold shut deals with some sharp edges. I clipped two ovalwires up there to rap off instead. A fun route, was a little dirty as expected, decent rock quality. Slightly overhanging face climbing.

2. Grade Unknown but looks easier - 4 bolts (I think) to the anchor, the 4th bolt doesn't have a hanger, same rap ring setup. Kind of in this dihedral thing to a slabby finish, rock doesn't look super good.

All in all a cool spot, but I'd probably only go back to do the longer routes. But if you go out to do those, why not do the sport climb too. Unusual for such a climb to be way out in this random gully.
By Roger McKee
Feb 3, 2014
GPS Coordinates for the base of the cliff:

N 42.03623
W073.43716

Best way to this is to take the trail from the partking lot on Rte 41, until it begins to trend back south and then strike out northwest. You may see some cairns and/or red blazes, but these may bring you quite close to the backs of some private homes. On the other hand, if you aim closer in to the steeping side of the mountain, you will hit some yellow blazes and AT boundary markers. Contour north and follow the second drainage up and into the big gully. The start of the climbs is well up-slope and it is easy to go too far.