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 ADVANCED
Second Pew
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Way To The Top T 
Crystal Highway T 
Crystal Overpass T 
Face With Bolt Route T,S 
Grits 'n' Gravy T 
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 
Is This Your Crack? T 
March Madness T 
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 
Vegan T,TR 

Grits with Eggs Over-Easy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Leo Paik and George Bracksieck
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Nov 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Yellow dotted line shows route. Photo by LP.

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Description 

On Oct. 30, 2012, I climbed from the low point of the Second Pew up the slab, with no pro until I could sling a small (but not tiny) tree. I moved rightish to a left-facing flake system that diagonals left. I gingerly liebacked and stemmed up this flake system, being careful with fragile rock (5.8+). At the top of the lieback, I threw a double-length sling behind a tiny shrub/tree (the most solid pro since the tree), then climbed up and leftish, past some loose blocks. I reached an alcove above a big bush and slung a couple of blocks for anchorage. Above lay the lichened crack of Is this Your Crack?

On the second pitch, Leo traversed left to a short chimney and followed it straight up to a nice dihedral/groove. Excellent face climbing was found on the face right of the groove. At its top, you may follow A Way to the Top, or traverse straight right (5.7) to a two bolt anchor atop Face with Bolt. Pro opportunities were merely occasional. The second pitch could be approached by other ways.

Location 

Start at the low point of the right side of the Second Pew.

Protection 

SR through #3 Camalot. Leo placed a funky #3 1/2 Camalot on the p.2 traverse. A # 8, 9 or 10 Hex MAY work there. Or maybe a funky #4 C4.


Comments on Grits with Eggs Over-Easy Add Comment
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By wroy
Dec 14, 2012

I see y'all are getting with the southern theme.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 16, 2012

Shucks, it was George's call.