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Grits with Eggs Over-Easy
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Leo Paik and George Bracksieck |
Page Views: | 605 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Nov 11, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
On Oct. 30, 2012, I climbed from the low point of the Second Pew up the slab, with no pro until I could sling a small (but not tiny) tree. I moved rightish to a left-facing flake system that diagonals left. I gingerly liebacked and stemmed up this flake system, being careful with fragile rock (5.8+). At the top of the lieback, I threw a double-length sling behind a tiny shrub/tree (the most solid pro since the tree), then climbed up and leftish, past some loose blocks. I reached an alcove above a big bush and slung a couple of blocks for anchorage. Above lay the lichened crack of Is this Your Crack?
On the second pitch, Leo traversed left to a short chimney and followed it straight up to a nice dihedral/groove. Excellent face climbing was found on the face right of the groove. At its top, you may follow A Way to the Top, or traverse straight right (5.7) to a two bolt anchor atop Face with Bolt. Pro opportunities were merely occasional. The second pitch could be approached by other ways.
On the second pitch, Leo traversed left to a short chimney and followed it straight up to a nice dihedral/groove. Excellent face climbing was found on the face right of the groove. At its top, you may follow A Way to the Top, or traverse straight right (5.7) to a two bolt anchor atop Face with Bolt. Pro opportunities were merely occasional. The second pitch could be approached by other ways.
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