|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Perin Blanchard on Sep 9, 2012|
|Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>|
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 9, 2012
As I climbed this line the handholds were covered in dust and grit and I kept knocking off bits with my feet, causing my belayer not a little consternation. The rock quality was atrocious, even by my admittedly lax standards.
At the fifth bolt I looked up and could only see a bolt 12-15 feet ahead. I looked in front of me at the rusty head of a bolt of unknown length and its rusty old SMC hanger, seated in rock of dubious quality. I contemplated a possible 20+ foot fall...and chickened out.
After taking and regaining my composure somewhat, I continued up (and discovered an intermediate bolt not visible from below). Nevertheless, I'd lost my enthusiasm and went more-or-less bolt-to-bolt to the top.
It had started raining, and I decided this was a route I never wanted to get on again.
Oddly, though, as soon as I was on the ground I started thinking about getting on it again. I probably will at some point.
I think it must be a psychological disorder.
From: centerville, utah
Sep 9, 2012
|I gotta say take great caution on belaying on this route. I had 3 rocks hit my helmet that would have taken me to the hospital, plus one hit my back. There isn't a lot of room to maneuver for rock fall. Also a tree blocks the view of the climber as he gets higher. The tree might slow down rock fall but u won't see it coming. Not worth it.|
By Darren Knezek
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gripcom puts adventure back into sport climbing!!!!
Joking aside, the SMC hangers should be replaced. When I replaced the bolts and hangers with Jeff and Bill on The Membrane a few years ago, a lot of the bolts that had SMC hangers on them were bent near the head of the bolt from too much leverage being placed on them from the SMC hangers.