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Marga Powell at the crux move left. You can get a...
Begin about 20 feet below a big "tooth". climb along the right side of the tooth and then head up right along the flare. this is a good "arm" jam. Finish off the face for the last 15 feet to the two bolt anchor. Excellent route for the first time lead on trad and for beginners trad practice!
No bolts, use mid sized nuts or small cams for most of the climb. Need a #3 Camalot for a large crack about 3/4 of the way up. Two bolt chained anchor at the top. Able to top rope ONLY with a 60m rope.
Ruth Larner enjoying Grins
Joe C. cruising through the wide section on Grins.
Near the top.
Happy Hour Crags, Grins, TR with Angie Parris-Rane...
Just below the crux. Bill?
Chewie leading Grins.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2001
This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in.
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001
I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.
|By Matt White|
Feb 27, 2002
I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.
...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine.
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
Sep 10, 2003
TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock!
|By Michael Kullman|
Oct 21, 2003
Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro.
|By Jason Shatek|
Dec 6, 2004
Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2005
Lot of fun. don't miss if at the crag.
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Jun 26, 2007
Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight.
I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe.
I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 22, 2007
Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one.
|By Joe Brannan|
From: Erie, CO
Jul 31, 2008
My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade.
|By Brown Guy|
From: Lafayette, CO
Oct 4, 2009
I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour About 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated?
I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2011
Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better.
|By Brian Wright|
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Jun 6, 2012
The gear is not bad at first, as some have noted. You scramble up 4th class/5.easy to a stance where you can place a red C3 and launch into the goods. A BD #4 C4 can be used in the wide section, but I used a #3 (my girlfriend used the #4). After the wide section, it becomes cruiser. This is a great 5.8 pitch!