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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Travels With Charley 

Grim-Ace Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Royal and Liz Robbins, 1966
Page Views: 2,197
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
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Tricia nearing the top of P3
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Description 

Great route that is not for the meek or inexperienced. Loose rock is found on the first two pitches, but it's not a horror show.

P1- Climb the nice, steep face to the obvious ledge. Belay below the right facing corner.

P2- A good pitch; keep a watchful eye out for loose rock. Climb the right facing corner and traverse a few feet under the overhang. Climb up and left over the hang via some exciting moves. Continue straight up past more questionable stone to the GT and a short, right-facing corner.

P3- Wild and committing! Up the short corner, then traverse under the overhang. Begin the grunt-fest by pulling the overhang at a short left facing corner. Continue up to the Shockley's Ceiling belay.

From the top, descend via a bolted rappel line over Strictly From Nowhere.


Location 

15 feet right of PR and about 50 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3".



Photos of Grim-Ace Face Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at P2
Looking down at P2
Tricia nearing the top of P2
Tricia nearing the top of P2
Unknown climber pulled the roof on Grim-Face Ace. Perfect style! This dude made it look easy.
Unknown climber pulled the roof on Grim-Face Ace. ...
Comments on Grim-Ace Face Add Comment
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By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

be very very careful when topping out the 2nd pitch.. there is a huge loose rock that is just asking to be pulled on... A, it will scare the shit out of you when you pull on it and it rocks.. and B if it does fall it would take out your belayer.. so, as always in the gunks, use caution.

that being said, pitch 3 has yet another gunks classic ceiling! Bring out the balls of steel and iron ovaries for this one!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 25, 2009

This is one of the best 9's on the planet. Full of variety; face, roofs, traverses and one major commitment on P3. It's ballsy alright, but, tons of fun.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 22, 2010

Glad you enjoyed it... spend a bit more time traveling the planet:)