|d. Strictly - Shockley's
Great route that is not for the meek or inexperienced. Loose rock is found on the first two pitches, but it's not a horror show.
P1- Climb the nice, steep face to the obvious ledge. Belay below the right facing corner.
P2- A good pitch; keep a watchful eye out for loose rock. Climb the right facing corner and traverse a few feet under the overhang. Climb up and left over the hang via some exciting moves. Continue straight up past more questionable stone to the GT and a short, right-facing corner.
P3- Wild and committing! Up the short corner, then traverse under the overhang. Begin the grunt-fest by pulling the overhang at a short left facing corner. Continue up to the Shockley's Ceiling belay.
From the top, descend via a bolted rappel line over Strictly From Nowhere.
15 feet right of PR and about 50 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling.
Standard rack to 3".
Looking down at P2
Tricia nearing the top of P2
Unknown climber pulled the roof on Grim-Face Ace. ...
|By eric larson|
From: aurora, co
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
be very very careful when topping out the 2nd pitch.. there is a huge loose rock that is just asking to be pulled on... A, it will scare the shit out of you when you pull on it and it rocks.. and B if it does fall it would take out your belayer.. so, as always in the gunks, use caution.
that being said, pitch 3 has yet another gunks classic ceiling! Bring out the balls of steel and iron ovaries for this one!
From: Wayne, PA
May 25, 2009
This is one of the best 9's on the planet. Full of variety; face, roofs, traverses and one major commitment on P3. It's ballsy alright, but, tons of fun.
From: SL UT
Oct 22, 2010
Glad you enjoyed it... spend a bit more time traveling the planet:)
|By carl al|
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Nice climb, the 3rd pitch roof is bold but has bomber protection at the crux, if you're willing to hang out and place it. First pitch has some runout in the mid section but on good holds. thought it was pg overall.