Mountain Project Logo

Grigri be jammin

Original Post
Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

This was odd. My lead climber got to the overhang and fell twice, so was "resting". Grigri in the locked position, rope folded over and brake hand firmly grasped. I moved around some trying to help the lead identify holds to get over the over hang. Lead said climbing and made a move, I couldn't pull slack!!! WTF Lead lunges gets the drag from the rope and drops, again. Not a happy lead.

So what happened? The best I could figure is that while moving around I pulled the rope past the notch in the grigri, when lead unweighted grigri, closed and pinched the rope in the notch. So look at these pictures and let me know if you thing my grigri is malfunctioning, or is it just me....

Jam 1

Jam 2

Jam 3

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

this was an early design flaw that was pointed out to petzl, but they said it is only a minor inconvenience....

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

It's a fairly well-known issue. This is generally not a problem when feeding gently, or if you feed with your thumb holding the cam down (which is what I do). It occasionally happens when violently taking up / feeding out slack. Has happened to me a few times since I've owned a grigri2, but you can fix it quickly enough if you know what the problem is.

Your grigri is not defective, it's a (minor) flaw in the grigri2 design.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

it totally blows. lots of fun when it happens when you are belaying a much bigger dude who whips, and you are dangling in the air trying to fuck with it. petzl kind of shit the bed on this one.

Douche · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

Atc is the way to go

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

We will probably shift over to using our guide ATC's more. But for now we are still pretty novice and prefer the slight reassurance that if for whatever stupid reason we fail as a belayer the device might lock.

Ok, I am probably being a nervous nelly because neither one of us has missed a catch in nearly two years of climbing.

So for now we will persist with the slow/lock out feed and will be more aware of the possibility of snagging the corner while using the grigri.

But it is good to know I have not worn my grigri out nor damaged it.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

It's weird when an individual posts as "US".

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
nicelegs wrote:It's weird when an individual posts as "US".
It is, but then I have been married to my climbing partner for over thirty years. we spend 99% percent of our time together. Something that would drive most folks nuts.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Petzl might have changed the design to cure this, there was a "new" Grigri 2 on show at Outdoor this year so maybe they have adressed the issue. I didn´t bother to look because I use the Grigri 1 which of course doesn´t have this problem.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

This is interesting. I've been using a Grigri 2 since it was released and haven't experienced this. For those of you that have experienced this, I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points on the harness (thus twisting/turning the device a bit)?

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790
Jason Halladay wrote:This is interesting. I've been using a Grigri 2 since it was released and haven't experienced this. For those of you that have experienced this, I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points on the harness (thus twisting/turning the device a bit)?
Connection through the belay loop vs tie-in points isn't the issue at all. Jamming can occur when attempting to take in slack while the cam is fully engaged.

For instance, I have had the grigri 2 seize up many times when jugging up the line to assist a fallen leader back onto the wall. It has nothing to do with improper setup or use.
Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
Jason Halladay wrote:I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points
Belay loop!

It occurred while the lead was resting, hanging on the rope with the grigri fully open (locked), brake hand down by my hip. Then I walked left and right to see if I could spot a hand or foot hold not obvious that would help.
Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Timely! This happened to me for the first time the other day. I was belaying at the gym, and my partner took a fall and was jugging back up to his high point. I was taking in slack very fast, and jumping to assist him up. I didn't notice the rope getting caught, but all of a sudden it became very difficult to take in slack. I noticed the problem and was luckily able to fix it before my partner noticed anything amiss. Seems like it should be easy to avoid, I just didn't even know it was a potential issue!

Edit: and yeah, was clipped into belay loop, not tie in points. Don't know diameter of rope but it was pretty thin, I'd guess closer to 9mm than 10mm

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
Dan Austin wrote:Seems like it should be easy to avoid, I just didn't even know it was a potential issue!
It took several hundred climbs to manifest. Like you said, once you know of the potential problem it is easy to avoid.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

belay loop.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

Thanks for the added information, all. Knowing now that this condition can occur, I won't freak out if it happens to me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Grigri be jammin"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.