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Grigri be jammin
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Jul 21, 2014
Dallas R
This was odd. My lead climber got to the overhang and fell twice, so was "resting". Grigri in the locked position, rope folded over and brake hand firmly grasped. I moved around some trying to help the lead identify holds to get over the over hang. Lead said climbing and made a move, I couldn't pull slack!!! WTF Lead lunges gets the drag from the rope and drops, again. Not a happy lead.

So what happened? The best I could figure is that while moving around I pulled the rope past the notch in the grigri, when lead unweighted grigri, closed and pinched the rope in the notch. So look at these pictures and let me know if you thing my grigri is malfunctioning, or is it just me....


Jam 1
Jam 1




Jam 2
Jam 2




Jam 3
Jam 3
Dallas R
From Traveling the USA
Joined May 12, 2013
154 points
Jul 21, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
petzl.com/us/outdoor/grigri-ex... Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
781 points
Administrator
Jul 22, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
this was an early design flaw that was pointed out to petzl, but they said it is only a minor inconvenience.... slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Jul 22, 2014
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
It's a fairly well-known issue. This is generally not a problem when feeding gently, or if you feed with your thumb holding the cam down (which is what I do). It occasionally happens when violently taking up / feeding out slack. Has happened to me a few times since I've owned a grigri2, but you can fix it quickly enough if you know what the problem is.

Your grigri is not defective, it's a (minor) flaw in the grigri2 design.
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
74 points
Administrator
Jul 22, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
it totally blows. lots of fun when it happens when you are belaying a much bigger dude who whips, and you are dangling in the air trying to fuck with it. petzl kind of shit the bed on this one. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Jul 24, 2014
Atc is the way to go Douche
Joined Jul 24, 2014
0 points
Jul 25, 2014
Dallas R
We will probably shift over to using our guide ATC's more. But for now we are still pretty novice and prefer the slight reassurance that if for whatever stupid reason we fail as a belayer the device might lock.

Ok, I am probably being a nervous nelly because neither one of us has missed a catch in nearly two years of climbing.

So for now we will persist with the slow/lock out feed and will be more aware of the possibility of snagging the corner while using the grigri.

But it is good to know I have not worn my grigri out nor damaged it.
Dallas R
From Traveling the USA
Joined May 12, 2013
154 points
Jul 25, 2014
It's weird when an individual posts as "US". highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Denver
Joined Oct 29, 2012
16 points
Jul 25, 2014
Dallas R
nicelegs wrote:
It's weird when an individual posts as "US".


It is, but then I have been married to my climbing partner for over thirty years. we spend 99% percent of our time together. Something that would drive most folks nuts.
Dallas R
From Traveling the USA
Joined May 12, 2013
154 points
Jul 25, 2014
Petzl might have changed the design to cure this, there was a "new" Grigri 2 on show at Outdoor this year so maybe they have adressed the issue. I didnīt bother to look because I use the Grigri 1 which of course doesnīt have this problem. Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
195 points
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014
FA of The Great Potato (a.k.a. Mt. Ore Ida), Withi...
This is interesting. I've been using a Grigri 2 since it was released and haven't experienced this. For those of you that have experienced this, I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points on the harness (thus twisting/turning the device a bit)? Jason Halladay
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined Oct 19, 2005
9,538 points
Jul 25, 2014
Jason Halladay wrote:
This is interesting. I've been using a Grigri 2 since it was released and haven't experienced this. For those of you that have experienced this, I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points on the harness (thus twisting/turning the device a bit)?


Connection through the belay loop vs tie-in points isn't the issue at all. Jamming can occur when attempting to take in slack while the cam is fully engaged.

For instance, I have had the grigri 2 seize up many times when jugging up the line to assist a fallen leader back onto the wall. It has nothing to do with improper setup or use.
BrianWS
Joined Apr 22, 2010
728 points
Jul 26, 2014
Dallas R
Jason Halladay wrote:
I'm curious if you had the Grigri attached to your belay loop or through both tie-in points


Belay loop!

It occurred while the lead was resting, hanging on the rope with the grigri fully open (locked), brake hand down by my hip. Then I walked left and right to see if I could spot a hand or foot hold not obvious that would help.
Dallas R
From Traveling the USA
Joined May 12, 2013
154 points
Jul 26, 2014
Timely! This happened to me for the first time the other day. I was belaying at the gym, and my partner took a fall and was jugging back up to his high point. I was taking in slack very fast, and jumping to assist him up. I didn't notice the rope getting caught, but all of a sudden it became very difficult to take in slack. I noticed the problem and was luckily able to fix it before my partner noticed anything amiss. Seems like it should be easy to avoid, I just didn't even know it was a potential issue!

Edit: and yeah, was clipped into belay loop, not tie in points. Don't know diameter of rope but it was pretty thin, I'd guess closer to 9mm than 10mm
Dan Austin
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Oct 6, 2010
5 points
Jul 27, 2014
Dallas R
Dan Austin wrote:
Seems like it should be easy to avoid, I just didn't even know it was a potential issue!


It took several hundred climbs to manifest. Like you said, once you know of the potential problem it is easy to avoid.
Dallas R
From Traveling the USA
Joined May 12, 2013
154 points
Administrator
Jul 28, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
belay loop. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Administrator
Jul 28, 2014
FA of The Great Potato (a.k.a. Mt. Ore Ida), Withi...
Thanks for the added information, all. Knowing now that this condition can occur, I won't freak out if it happens to me. Jason Halladay
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined Oct 19, 2005
9,538 points


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