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Gridlock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 1,497
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 23, 2007

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Mike warming up on the Unnamed 5.11a at the Galler...

Description 

Between Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct, start from the ground and mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt, head right on jugs to a long move in order to clip the 3rd bolt climb straight up to the anchors.


Protection 

5 bolts shared anchor with Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct



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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

On 12/7/10, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the last bolt on this route along with the shared anchor. All bolts are 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece. The anchor is equipped with quicklinks and rap rings.

By Climber Ryan
From: Redwood City, CA
Dec 3, 2012

The description for the 11a (left start) is miss leading. First clip is a little sketchy if you less than 6 foot. There are finger busting crimps for the first two bolts. Then you are at a lovely jug way right of the third bolt that is a parilous reach back to the left. Once the third bolt is clipped the climb is mellow. First three bolts are way harder than Yaak Crack. Not a good fall at nearing the third bolt. I know I made it twice.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Its a good idea to clip the 3rd bolt off the crimps to avoid the scary fall- which is safe if you have the bolt clipped.