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 ADVANCED
Ed Woody
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cobbles and Robbers S 
Gridlock S 
Len's Take S 
Redline S 

Gridlock 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Strang summer 97
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

High first bolt and some tricky moves to a good rest. Step around arete after the last bolt to keep the route at easy 5.10. Better finishes are to finish straight to the anchors 5.11, or the best finish 2-3 stars is to finish on Redline the next route to the right.

Location 

On Far left side of Ed-Woody Wall

Protection 

4 Bolts + Anchors


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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely not one to avoid. First bolt is not very high (it's no higher than Redline)and it's easy climbing up to it. Fairly sustained up to the anchors. I went straight up the face, so I can't comment on the grade if you step around the arete, but I would consider that not only a bit off route, but also more dangerous because of the swing potential. For what it's worth, Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says: "Quality climbing and very popular..."
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
May 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

As far as I know I went straight up through the shallow crack and it seemed like 10+ at the most. Not hard, just a little heady- Um, I think I was on Redline
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves.
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 19, 2010

Not Ed's route
FA Rich Strang summer 97