Gridlock 5.10
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Description High first bolt and some tricky moves to a good rest. Step around arete after the last bolt to keep the route at easy 5.10. Better finishes are to finish straight to the anchors 5.11, or the best finish 2-3 stars is to finish on Redline the next route to the right.
Location On Far left side of Ed-Woody Wall
Protection 4 Bolts + Anchors
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c
| Definitely not one to avoid. First bolt is not very high (it's no higher than Redline)and it's easy climbing up to it. Fairly sustained up to the anchors. I went straight up the face, so I can't comment on the grade if you step around the arete, but I would consider that not only a bit off route, but also more dangerous because of the swing potential. For what it's worth, Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says: "Quality climbing and very popular..." |
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
May 16, 2008
rating: 5.10
| As far as I know I went straight up through the shallow crack and it seemed like 10+ at the most. Not hard, just a little heady- Um, I think I was on Redline |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves. |
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 19, 2010
| Not Ed's route
FA Rich Strang summer 97 |
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