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Fire Crags
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Grib Dat Hole 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Randy Judycki & Mike Colee, 1992
Page Views: 1,443
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Ground-up view of Grib Dat Hole. Movin' Out can be...

Description 

Start on the left side of the "prow". A steep start, followed by a short, balancy crux leads to fun and aesthetic climbing above. Apparently, some pockets were drilled.


Protection 

6 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Grib Dat Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Tim Coates on Grib Dat Hole
Tim Coates on Grib Dat Hole
Matthew Fienup pulling the crux of Grib dat Hole, Fire Crags
Matthew Fienup pulling the crux of Grib dat Hole, ...
Comments on Grib Dat Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Choncho
Mar 11, 2007

Maybe a tad harder than 11a, but who's counting.
Cool little crag!!

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 9, 2007

The first move past the first bolt certainly seems a bit bouldery. It's a great place to take a fall, though. However, make sure your belayer is heavier and/or secured to the ground as a significant lead fall can launch said belayer into the little roof. No fun...

By Benjiman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 4, 2007

The anchor for this route consists of a bolt and two open shunts. The two open shunts are sketchy and should probably be replaced.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 17, 2008

A bolt makeover is pending for Fire Crags, so hopefully bent, loose, and manky bolts like the oft-fallen-on first bolt of Grib Dat Hole will be replaced with something more stout. Last time I was up there, the bolt looked pretty bad. Glue-in, anyone?

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Did this route on saturday, had to yard up on that bolt a bit to clip the next bolt because Iwasn't willing to take a fall on it. It looks OK, but I'm not convinced it would arrest a fall. This is a fantastic route other than that bolt (well the anchors seem to be wearing the rock a lot, but the third bolt makes setting a top rope for others seem more secure, still rapped off it seems a bit sketchy.

By Jan Roestel
Dec 27, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A V1 boulder problem to 5.9 climbing above.
This popular route and Jensen's Jugs would benefit the most from an anchor replacement initiative.

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route appeared to have new anchors a couple of feet to the right and slightly lower than the old anchors (at least there are so old bolt studs). Also, since I was last on it, the first bolt of the route has been replaced.

By Jan Roestel
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route has a new anchor. The bolts appear to be 3/8" (Powers) anchors with PS quicklinks and chain. Looks like the old anchor put up a fight, since there is a bit of rock scarring.
The terrible old first bolt has been replaced. The big new bolt wasn't quite drilled at 90 degrees and the hanger isn't sitting completely flat against the rock. The third (if I remember right) bolt was also replaced with a smaller bolt (and Metolius hanger. All of these old holes should be patched.