Type: | TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 882 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Aug 24, 2014 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing
Details
During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
Description
A bit harder and with more variety than Grey Face.
Get up onto the top of the low nose (crux, awkward) - (of course without using the Grey Face holds). Then straight up to right-facing corner (which is just right of Grey Face upper bolts) with some interesting moves.
. (optional extra: Continue to top of high block to the right above the two-bolt anchor for Grey Face - ? not protected ?)
Get up onto the top of the low nose (crux, awkward) - (of course without using the Grey Face holds). Then straight up to right-facing corner (which is just right of Grey Face upper bolts) with some interesting moves.
. (optional extra: Continue to top of high block to the right above the two-bolt anchor for Grey Face - ? not protected ?)
Location
At the round-ish "nose" about eight feet high and about three feet wide, with a nicely positioned inch-wide crack midway up its right side.
Just right of Grey Face start (which has shallow dihedral up to first bolt). Just left of the thin corner-crack which is left below the upper-half not-so-thin flake/crack of the Cornflake Crack route.
Just right of Grey Face start (which has shallow dihedral up to first bolt). Just left of the thin corner-crack which is left below the upper-half not-so-thin flake/crack of the Cornflake Crack route.
Protection
No bolts on the route. Two-bolt anchor for Grey Face near top is to the left of this route (and below the high block at top of this), so likely needs Trad directional to get a top-rope over this route -- or a separate Trad anchor to set up top-rope protection for the optional move to the high top block.
Photos
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