Take Greensprings Hwy (66) past Emigrant Lake 14.8 miles to Tyler Creek Road on the right. Follow Tyler Creek down a hill ~.25 miles, to pullout on right side. Trail will be on the left. Approach is short, but steep with loose gravel.
Start with Marge's Navel and continue to the top. A few .ll moves with closely spaced bolts to good anchors and a beautiful view of the valley.Can be top roped by scrambling up the far left side of the formation and stepping across to the column. Wouldn't recommend but there are good bolts on top for protection....[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Great climbing on polished granite. There are a lot of sport routes out here. For a more complete guide check out Greg Orton's guide book for the Rogue - excellent resource for Southern Oregon climbers.
I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.
And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks.