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Greenhorns in Velvet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pete Delannoy, 1991
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: bmdhacks on Jun 10, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Approximate location

Description 

A great combination of pockets and slab. Don't miss the shell fossil at waist level right at the start.


Location 

This climb is on the face around the right of the main alcove of the Claim Jumper wall. It's obscured by, and slightly to the right of a big tree close to the wall.


Protection 

bolts to chains



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By stvsmth
From: Lander, WY
Jul 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

At 5.7 (as of Bechtel 2011) you'd think this would be a great lead for beginners in the OK Corral. You'd be wrong. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun climb, but the beginning leader may want to look elsewhere and wander back when regularly climbing harder stuff.

The start can be a little vexing. Easier climbing gets you to the third bolt and then it's delicate face climbing for a few moves before easier terrain sets in. By delicate face climbing I man thin (but plentiful) holds and anonymous, small smears for the feet. I suppose there might be some beta that makes a 5.7 rating more reasonable, but in my opinion a 5.7 should be, by definition, fairly obvious after a few attempts.

The climber in search of 7-8 leads will probably want to head over to La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8) for a better grouping of moderates. While shorter and not as nice as Greenhorns, Slave (8) and R is for Redneck (7) are more accessible to the beginning leader and a good warm-up for the very nice La Vaca.

By bmdhacks
Jul 14, 2012

I think it's the slab that gets you. Non-steep routes like this can be both technically and psychologically challenging for a beginning leader. The features thin out and a fall comes with the threat of hitting the rock. Still, this route felt like 5.7 slab to me. But it could get harder in the future as the features polish-up.