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Y-Crack Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dish to Pass S 
Blinded by Lust S 
Dakota Farms Cheese S 
Death of A Salesman T,S 
Eagle Rare T,S,TR 
Early Times S 
Easy Tower Route T 
Green Zipper T 
Little pine T 
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T 
Rebel Yell T,S 
Straight No Chaser T 
Ten High T 
Tower Route S 
West Face of Tower T 
Whiskey a Go-Go S 
Whiskey Chimmney AKA Pigeon Crack T 
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Green Zipper 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman and Burt Lindquist
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Route to the right of the arete.


See comments below. Rhoads feel free to cut and paste what you will from the comments (ok Burt?) -Eggert


On south face of the detached tower left of Y-Crack. Starts just right of "Dakota Farms Cheese".


Trad. Chopped bolts.

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By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2010

Brent and I put this up at the same time we put in Dakota Farms Cheese. It was later removed by somebody and that was not a problem for me. The route was a bit ill concieved (can barely be led on gear I think) and a crucial hold broke up at the crux (above the top bolt position) and kind of rendered the whole thing dumb. We called it "Black Toe" and it was around mid to hard 5.10. Somebody didn't like the route and cut the studs. I have been meaning to still mix a little rock dust with epoxy and cover those stud spots.

The route more or less stays right of the corner now then drifts a bit further right at the top and climbs through the little flap right of those old bolt locations. Originally we had it going straight through the bolts but hold broke and really it was a contrived line at that. I have led this thing on gear since myself and more or less understood the folly...

Did you lead this ground up on gear too Nick? I am wondering if you veered right at the top like I did. The original bolt line at the top has no real gear placements.... you gotta move right to get them?
Your new route name sounds great...
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010

Never did this one actually. The bottom looked unprotected, not that that has ever stopped me. Next time...
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 21, 2010

If you step in a bit from the right you can get small stuff in to protect the start. Its small and in SS, you get the picture I am sure.
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