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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Wingless Victory 

Green Willow Wall 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Michael, Chip Chace
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,076
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Mar 1, 2002
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Ryan crushing the finishing crux.
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  • Description 

    This very aesthetic line tackles the middle of the broad green face left of Jules Verne and, despite its two bolts, offers spicy climbing much like its neighbors.

    Begin on the left-trending arch 50 feet up and left of the start of Jules Verne (the coninuation out the arch is Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow -- 5.11+ X). Head about halfway out the arch and turn the lip at one of two spots (a big cam is helpful).

    Step right onto the face and move up on slopey features past two bolts to finish either at the Jules Verne anchor or on Lene's Dream for extra value.

    It is a sporty but thoughtful pitch on killer stone.


    Protection 

    Quickdraws and some big cams; maybe a TCU or two.



    Photos of Green Willow Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rob Kepley takes a shake after pulling the roof start.
    Rob Kepley takes a shake after pulling the roof st...
    Rob Kepley calmly dials in the redpoint just before the horizontal "brown band".
    Rob Kepley calmly dials in the redpoint just befor...
    Comments on Green Willow Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Nov 11, 2006
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R

    This is one killer pitch on great rock. This is a tough one to onsight since there was absolutely no chalk up there. Hidden edges continued to emerge as I climbed higher. However, there is some junk rock just after pulling the roof getting to the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, it's on like Donkey Kong until you reach the brown band above. Get ready for some "pucker" action above the 2nd bolt! Classic climb on a beautiful wall.

    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Nov 19, 2006
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R

    Put it away today. What a beautiful climb!

    By Scott Bennett
    Apr 8, 2009
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R

    Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting.

    It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, but you definitely have to pull a move before you can clip it. I had passed up some possible RP placements below it (thinking it looked easy all the way to the bolt), though, maybe if you took your time you could find something decent to keep you off the deck here.

    After that, there's the potential for some big falls, but I can speak from experience when I say that they're pretty clean.

    -Scott

    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 3, 2012
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

    Brillant and adventurous slab climbing. Really cool scoop features on the upper headwall.

    By VARMENT
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 3, 2012

    This can be linked with Lene's Dream for one of the best pitches in Eldo!