Green Willow Wall 5.11+ R
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Dan Michael, Chip Chace |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Mar 1, 2002 |
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Rob Kepley takes a shake after pulling the roof st...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This very aesthetic line tackles the middle of the broad green face left of Jules Verne and, despite its two bolts, offers spicy climbing much like its neighbors.
Begin on the left-trending arch 50 feet up and left of the start of Jules Verne (the coninuation out the arch is Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow -- 5.11+ X). Head about halfway out the arch and turn the lip at one of two spots (a big cam is helpful).
Step right onto the face and move up on slopey features past two bolts to finish either at the Jules Verne anchor or on Lene's Dream for extra value.
It is a sporty but thoughtful pitch on killer stone.
Protection Quickdraws and some big cams; maybe a TCU or two.
Rob Kepley calmly dials in the redpoint just befor...
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Ryan crushing the finishing crux.
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| Comments on Green Willow Wall |
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By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Nov 11, 2006
rating: 5.11+ R
| This is one killer pitch on great rock. This is a tough one to onsight since there was absolutely no chalk up there. Hidden edges continued to emerge as I climbed higher. However, there is some junk rock just after pulling the roof getting to the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, it's on like Donkey Kong until you reach the brown band above. Get ready for some "pucker" action above the 2nd bolt! Classic climb on a beautiful wall. |
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Nov 19, 2006
rating: 5.11+ R
| Put it away today. What a beautiful climb! |
By Scott Bennett
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.11+ R
| Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting.
It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, but you definitely have to pull a move before you can clip it. I had passed up some possible RP placements below it (thinking it looked easy all the way to the bolt), though, maybe if you took your time you could find something decent to keep you off the deck here.
After that, there's the potential for some big falls, but I can speak from experience when I say that they're pretty clean.
-Scott |
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ PG13
| Brillant and adventurous slab climbing. Really cool scoop features on the upper headwall. |
By VARMENT
Oct 3, 2012
| This can be linked with Lene's Dream for one of the best pitches in Eldo! |
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