Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Culp-Raubach Finish T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Green Sleeves 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Henry Browning, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 736
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch of Green Sleeves. The bolt is marked wi...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Green Sleeves is on Steve Levin's obscure tour and is well worth seeking out. The variation to The Green Spur is worth doing once but is not the same quality as the regular route. The 5.10 finger crack on the crux pitch is amazing, though. Starting this route with Grandmother's Challenge or The Green Spur would be a great outing.

    P1/2: follow The Green Spur up to the crux dihedral. Break out left, and follow discontinuous cracks to the Red Ledge (5.9+, 195 feet).

    P3: scramble along the ledge and around the corner to the left and belay on the ledge below the start of Green Slab Direct's 3rd pitch. Watch out for loose rock (5.3, 120 feet).

    P4: angle left to the arete and follow face/cracks to a new bolt (2015). This bolt protects the face moves to the right. Gain an amazing finger crack with great locks and a few tricky moves to the Green Slab Direct's belay stance (5.10c, 150 feet).

    P5: pick an easy crack system to the top. There are two variations to choose from (5.6, 150 feet).

    Location 

    The start shares the first 120 feet of Green Spur.

    Protection 

    The crux pitch requires at least a double set of small cams and a set of RPs. Two #1 Camalots were also handy on this pitch.


    Comments on Green Sleeves Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dave Holliday
    May 14, 2015

    Greg German and I replaced the old bolt on the crux pitch with modern hardware today.
    By Gregger Man
    May 14, 2015

    Ahhh. Better.
    Ahhh. Better.
    Beyond the Guidebook:
    The Definitive Climbing Resource
    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run
    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps
    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes
    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!