This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Once in Lower Chaos Canyon, locate the Bush Pilot. Heading dues south past the Bush Pilot, you can cross the stream heading out of the lake at some floating logs. Directly in front of you is the problem, European Human Being. The Green Slab Area lies slightly southeast of the European Human Being boulder about two minutes. The slabs face east and an easier section of slabs on the right is separated by some taller, prettier, greener slabs on the left. If you continue south, you will rejoin the main trail after about five minutes.
A long wall of tall, highball, slab, boulder problems that mostly check in at V0-V1, or 5.9-low 5.10. This will probably never be a popular area for those seeking out the overhanging power problems of lower Chaos, but for climbers who like to be a little more well rounded there are some beautiful, tall, slab problems here worth a visit.
While most of the slabs here are 5.9 highball affairs, this route is quite a bit harder and is a great challenge for anyone who enjoys using their feet and finds themselves caught up in the land of overhangs. Would probably be V3 at Lumpy or Flagstaff, the V5 rating seems more in line with Chaos style ratings.The route is a little licheny and committing as well, but the movement is stellar and quality is beautiful, a great little problem. I don't know if this has been done before, the name is ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO