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|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
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(I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.)
Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.
Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!
About 50 to 60 feet right of the bottomless, right-facing corner of Scallion is a left-facing corner that turns into a short slab, then a right-facing corner. This is the route.
A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope juuuuuust makes it to the ground.
|By Jon Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 25, 2010
With rope stretch, you can get down with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end of the rope though.
|By Derek Doucet|
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
One of the nicest moderates on the cliff, but it seems to get little traffic. Looks poorly protected from below, but can be sewn up. The guidebook says the anchor atop P1 is left of the crack, which is incorrect. There is a good fixed anchor to the right of the crack. And to reiterate Jonothan's comment, a 60m JUST BARELY reaches.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
For pitch 2 (5.9): Head up and right from the anchor to a short left-facing corner in the roof. Climb this steep section (crux) and a nice crack, then weave your way up runout and perennially wet slabs to the Calamine Ledge. Climbing after pulling the exciting crux is pretty bad, be very comfortable on runout and spoogy rock.