Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch 
Air Male 
Arch Crack 
Bloody Mary 
Borderline 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) 
Casual Observer 
Certified Raw 
Chik'n Garbonzo 
Cirrhosis 
Cooney-Norton 
Cosmopolitan Wall 
Earthly Night 
Fastest Gun, The 
Firing Line 
FM, The 
Gamesmanship 
Grapes of Wrath 
Great Dihedral, The 
Green Onion 
Group Therapy 
Hang 'Em High 
It Don't Come Easy 
Junior Varsity 
La Spirale 
Ladder 
Macho 
Maestro 
Mayflower 
Menace To Sobriety 
Morning Star 
P.T. Pillar 
Pandemonium 
Paralysis 
Phase III 
Pilgrim's Progress 
Pillar 
Psalm 32 
Psychosis 
Puppies on Edge 
Ragtime 
Raptor's Sream 
Rapture, The 
Salad Days 
Scallion 
Snake Slide 
Snatch, The 
Son of a Mother 
Son of Slime 
Southern Hospitality p1 
Static Cling 
Sting, The 
Sunburst Arete 

Green Onion 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1977--Geoff Smith, Patrick Munn
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 29, 2009
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
lucander on p. 1 of Green Onion (5.8) t Poke-O

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    (I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.)

    Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.

    Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!


    Location 

    About 50 to 60 feet right of the bottomless, right-facing corner of Scallion is a left-facing corner that turns into a short slab, then a right-facing corner. This is the route.


    Protection 

    A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope juuuuuust makes it to the ground.



    Comments on Green Onion Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    May 25, 2010

    With rope stretch, you can get down with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end of the rope though.

    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 9, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    One of the nicest moderates on the cliff, but it seems to get little traffic. Looks poorly protected from below, but can be sewn up. The guidebook says the anchor atop P1 is left of the crack, which is incorrect. There is a good fixed anchor to the right of the crack. And to reiterate Jonothan's comment, a 60m JUST BARELY reaches.

    By lucander
    From: Stone Ridge, NY
    Jan 16, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

    For pitch 2 (5.9): Head up and right from the anchor to a short left-facing corner in the roof. Climb this steep section (crux) and a nice crack, then weave your way up runout and perennially wet slabs to the Calamine Ledge. Climbing after pulling the exciting crux is pretty bad, be very comfortable on runout and spoogy rock.