P 1: Start up Chitlinís Corner. After 50ft. move up right onto discontinuous cracks to a semi hanging belay ledge (gear).
P 2: Follow corner/ramp to a small roof. Pull roof (crux) and continue up face to belay ledge (2 bolt anchors).
Chitlin's Corner: Massive left-facing corner
Small cams and nuts.
Cruising the steep but juggy first pitch face.
|By Steven James|
From: Portland, Maine
Mar 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is my favorite route at Precipice. Lots of beautiful island and ocean exposure!
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is a fantastic climb, but I wish I had beta on the protection before I climbed it. I found myself on some very scary runout on the second pitch. The entirety of that pitch is protected with gear around finger size. Also, some of the best gear to make the first pitch anchor is around finger size... Basically I did not have what I needed to protect the roof and the climbing above it well because I had already used the gear that would fit, and found myself in an R-Rated situation.
I highly recommend doubles or even triples of small hands, finger size, and smaller gear. Try to find a way to build your first pitch anchor without using this size gear if you don't have doubles. I'm sure it can be done, though it might make for a less comfortable belay.
Don't be afraid, just be prepared! The large majority of this route goes at about 5.7, but the crux sequence (the second pitch roof) is easily hard 5.10 in my opinion. Protect that roof before you pull up and commit!