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> Donkey Punch Area
Green Mile Direct
V8-9 YDS 7B+ Font
Avg: 3.4 from 25 votes
Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Colin Cox |
Page Views: | 5,141 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 27, 2010 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Fragile Sandstone: Don't Climb Wet Rock
Details
Kelly Canyon is a sandstone climbing area and the rock is very fragile when wet. Be aware of recent weather and ask a local if you are unsure of conditions. Do not climb for at least a day following rainfall. Do not climb on rock that is visibly moist or seeping.
Description
Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left on a crimp rail to reach a rounded jug. Pull sloping edges through the upper bulge to stand on the rounded jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.)
(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)
Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.
(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)
Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.
11 Comments