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 ADVANCED
Green Monster Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Erase Your Face T 
Green Dihedral T,TR 
Green Jello S 
Green Monster T,TR 
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 
Pure Thoughts S 

Green Jello 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 2,883
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 23, 2005

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Payton at the chains of P1 (Green Jello).

Description 

Green Jello ascends the arete of the Green Monster Slab for its entire length. The first pitch runs about 5.7 and takes you up the majority of the route to a set of double chain anchors. Stay out on the face to the right if you want to keep things challenging, or climb the ledges on the left to simplify things for a bit. Either way you will be forced out onto the face on the second pitch for the crux, delicate balance, 5.9 moves.

This route may be done as a single pitch.

Descent: Either do a single (60m) rope rap to the base of the Green Monster route or walk off to the south.

Protection 

Well protected bolt route.

P1 8 bolts and ring anchors.
P2 3 bolts and chain anchors. There is also a fixed pin that isn't really worth clipping since it is close to a bolt.

Location 

Hike the Rock Canyon main trail to the gully just before The Kitchen. Scramble up the gully to the south past the Bolt Slab to the base of the Green Monster Slab. Do not ascend the Class 4 to the base of the Green Monster crack. Look for the bolt line on the arete of the Green Monster Slab.


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Main Routes on Green Monster
BETA PHOTO: Main Routes on Green Monster

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By tenesmus
Jul 26, 2007

The bummer is that the upper face has bolts right by the Green Monster Aid Crack. How easy would it have been to leave this classic gear climb undisturbed by bolts? That crack up there just EATS up gear (like a great piece every 3-4 feet) and is maybe 5.9 by then.
By Darren Knezek
Aug 9, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Jim Knight established Green Jello about 8 years ago. He also did the first free ascent of Green Monster Aid Crack in the 1970's. If you're the Rock Canyon historian you say that you are, you would realize that there is only one new route on this "classic" formation since 1985. I've climbed over 350 routes in Rock Canyon and I think it's a great new addition to this formation, put up by one of the original Utah bad asses. What I find interesting is how much complaining there is on this website about new routes and as far as the Provo Crew waking up, the next time you're in American Fork, Maple Canyon, Triassic, Joe's Valley, Santaquin Canyon, Rock Canyon or The San Rafael Swell maybe you should wake up while you're enjoying the nice trails, routes and boulders established by "The Provo Crew." And as far as squeeze jobs are concerned, take a look at Green Adjective, The Schoolroom Buttress, Crescent Crack Buttress and just about every other crag in Little Cottonwood is just as squeezed as AF or Rock Canyon. All the routes that I've climbed at these cliffs have added to my life. I've seen Jim at every single Rock Canyon Repair Day in over 20 years rallying climbers, making posters, paying for repairs out of his own pocket; and I've never heard him bad mouth a single climb at any canyon. You're only in your 30's and he's helped create your stomping grounds in Rock Canyon and LCC since the early 70's. I also would give Green Jello four stars on this website, I think it's an extremely fun route.
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Oct 11, 2007

Not a squeeze but rather a beautiful natural line up a prominent feature of the wall. surprised it wasn't bolted sooner. Its not very often that I climb a route of that grade but this is an exception.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 13, 2009

The ONLY downside in my opinion is the temptation to climb through the hardest moves on the other side of the arete. But if you climb true, this is a great fun climb. Thanks Jim.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bring long runners and do this route in one long pitch. Fun exposure and good moves up top. I don't think the bolts are too close to any of the thin cracks...
Watch your 70m when you lower/rap from this, most likely you'll have to land somewhere on the ramp.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a very fun climb. I expected it to be longer for some reason, but it went by quite quickly. Good solid holds. Very fun second pitch to stay out on the face. It was my wife's first multi-pitch and she loved it. I would recommend this for anyone looking to get into multi-pitch stuff. Easy warm-up first pitch, with a slightly more challenging second pitch. It didn't feel like a 5.9 though. This will be my new approach for climbing Green monster, instead of the hike past Tinker Toys and up to rap in.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I know some people don't climb the same climb more than once, but I do, and I will keep doing this one everytime I go for Green Monster. It's a great warm-up and we did it in one pitch this morning. Fun. Especially the second pitch. You get a little taste of feeling exposed and the moves are a little tougher than the first pitch so it's a good challenge.