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Green Envy S 

Green Envy 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1990)
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: ---- on Aug 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Green Envy features some long bouldery moves split by good shakes.

Begin by navigating through some chossy ledges to a short overhanging arete feauture. The crux moves hit you right off the bat as you battle up a couple edges to a decent hold just below the head wall. Pulling on to the head wall is very bouldery. The beginning of the headwall involves lots of long powerful traversing moves. The climbing lets up a little as you progress up the headwall, but the moves remain reachy. Enjoy nice pockets and edges on fine stone.

Location 

This route is the next route left of the bolted crack "disturbance."

Protection 

7 bolts + anchor


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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This line felt hard and nasty. Intro boulder problem is V5 right off the ground, then a nasty V4 traverse with a full blown iron cross move (I am not even sure if this move is possible for those with a shorter ape index than me). Then you have to shake out and crank out I would say another 11d section before it eases up. pushing 12d imho...
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

One more thing - the moves after the 3rd bolt are kind of run out on a pendulum traverse which makes it sketchy if you ask me. I recommend lowering a super long draw off the 4th bolt to make it clip-able before dong the iron cross traverse. Feel free to call me a whimp but I fell here a few times and kept slamming wildly (pendulum-style) into the face below the roof which was not pleasant at all and that was just before going to the jugs out left (pictured). The second bolt could also be placed more judiciously (definitely stick clip this). I recognize the desire for minimal bolting but this route seems to be one of many examples of poor bolting at this particular crag...
By ----
Apr 9, 2012

Thanks for your additional comments on the route. I probably should have mentioned that there is some nasty fall potential on this one. I would also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I lowered off of disturbance on to Green Envy, hung draws, brushed holds and pre clipped the first two before pulling the rope and leading it. This is probably the preferred method if you want your experience to be a little less stressful.
By AndyJohnson
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The iron cross proved to be very low-percentage for me. I eventually figured out some scrunchy beta utilizing a good undercling and the small crimp mid-way through iron cross.