|Central Wall Area
An upper wall classic without the traffic you would expect from such a fun climb. With long corners, big roofs, tricky aid, and some free climbing, this 6 pitch route is a great warm up for Yosemite. It does get some runoff when the weather is wet.
As you arrive at the wall after about 45min of hiking, look 30’ to the left. Either aid up the thin line or climb 5.9+ just left of that. You will see a beautiful long corner about 60’ up the wall, that is the second pitch!
Your basic aid rack with a few larger pieces.
Looking down at the P3 anchors.
Barry gearing up for pitch one, Green Drag-on
Barry and Rob at last belay.
BETA PHOTO: Robert on pitch two "Green Drag-on"
Looking down P4.
Jul 3, 2008
Now free at .13- courtesy of Justen Sjong and Ben Gilkison.
|By Michael Ybarra|
From: on the road
Aug 14, 2011
The last pitch blows. The bolt ladder leads to a flaring dirty crack, worse than the last pitch of Town Crier, which also blows. Overall, I found this pretty straight forward. A double set of C3s and C4s and a single #4 was perfect; placed almost no nuts but used a cam hook a lot. Rapped the Town Crier anchors with a single 60.
Sep 26, 2012
Some beta for the free version:
P1: Really nice varied thin crack with a tricky friction crux at the top (.11a). Eats up stoppers like crazy but cams will work too.
P2: Hard start with a steep flake into a bolted corner leads to nice crack climbing with fixed pins and good gear. Crux upper flared corner (.12a) leads to a steep off-balance lieback section before easing off on the slab above. Bring a couple of small brass nuts for this pitch.
P3: Varied crack climbing leads through a steep section of gigantic hollow blocks (slightly scary). A tricky crux (.11a) at the top ends at an exposed, fully hanging belay.
P4: Exposed move around the roof to a right facing corner. Above a small stance, clip a bolt and continue to the left on tiny crimps past two more bolts (.12c). It's possible and a little more comfortable to belay at the small stance with a bolt and a green or red Camalot rather than the hanging belay under the roof.
P5: From the anchor, climb past 4 or 5 bolts via thin face climbing (.12d/.13-). Do not attempt this section in hot weather. The rest of the pitch is 5.10 crack climbing.
Rap the route with a single 70m rope or grovel up a dirty low 5th class ramp and walk off.