|Green Monster Slab
Enjoyable finger crack that extends over a large bulge.
From the same start as Green Monster on the Green Monster Slab (see that route for approach information) you head directly up the right-facing dihedral.
Lieback the lower crack or stem way over to Green Monster crack.
Small cams (Camalot .3 - 2). You will probably need about 7 pieces. The bolts for Pure Thoughts are about four feet to the right. Single bolt anchor at the top.
Dave setting his first piece. He has his left foot...
BETA PHOTO: Major routes on the Green Monster
Jan at the top
From: Small Lake, UT
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chossy with lots of loose holds, this route redeems itself with fun moves at the crux above a bomber .5. Bring smallish nuts for the bottom part.
The single bolt is there for the rap, scramble around to the top and you'll find it about 6' to the right of the anchors for green monster.
Jul 10, 2009
I thought this was harder than it looked. It felt harder than Green Monster to me, that's for sure.
There are two big loose flakes on the route. One, on the right side of the dihedral, moves a couple inches when pulled on. It's a giant jug and it looks solid, so be careful.....it would almost certainly kill your belayer if it came off. The second is smaller and on the left, just after the first loose one. It's a nice hold, but it is hollow, so be gentle.
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, Utah
6 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
5.9+ because this felt more difficult than Green Monster. Also, as the guy above me notes, there are two loose flakes. I think I could've pulled the second one off, and it was part of my sequence through the crux. Until it's been removed I would be very careful, it would likely slice your rope. The crack needs to be cleaned out--some good placements are nullified by mud caked into the crack.
This climb is rad! Sweet stemming/underclings/liebacks with committing moves above gear and a slighly overhung crux. Was surprised at how good it was. Get on it!