To keep the difficulty sustained when you get to the tower, climb straight up the south face (instead of going to the right at the top of the shallow dihedral) and do a tough mantel to reach the biners at the top.
The starting slab is a fun bolder spot.The whole route is excelent for practicing smearing and crimping. i found and ausome under cling that help me make it through the crux. (3/4 of the way up, i think)Stay to the right for a challenge.
By Tradoholic Jun 3, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b R
Gear is heinous, I got one good piece, a tricam, about 3/4 the way up. I wasn't carrying cams though but I didn't see any good placements for one anyway. Finishing on the ledge above New Light Waves is wrong, finish on the top of the tower utilizing the face directly or the left arete.
By Doug Hemken Administrator Feb 6, 2012 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
Requires faith in the friction of both your hands and feet!
A great TR, starting from the right end of the slab, or a pretty good lead from the left, starting over near "Balcony." Small, shallow nut at the crux (1/8 - 1/4"). If you are tall enough you can reach up to the right and get in a small (1/2") cam or tricam.