West of Greeley ponds is a rock extrusion of schist and granite Much is smooth dark and possibly of a high iron content. furthest sections north are granite. About a mile from the ponds west is 1/4 mile+ long disconnected walls that far to the south are split by a giant dike (in winter known nowadays as "The Drool of the Beast" It is in the middle of nowhere and there's piratically nowhere to go after climbing it to get off of it in summer or winter. Therefore rappelling from the dike's decent rock ending is often necessary in winter. Beyond the dike south is a 200+ brown slab. I've heard rumors of someone bolting a route up the brown slab. Rumors are unreliable. The slab being there is reliable. I haven't been to the slab yet but from a distance on the East Osceola Trail I got a clear view of it. I believe the slab is granite. For sure there's good rock out there on both sides of the Dike. It's just very hard too find this section because of the many rolling hill mounds between the ponds and the raised extrusion. I approached the cliff in summer directly from the ponds and it was terribly long and nothing to see except trees and more trees because of the hills. When I approach this extrusion again it will be from the Kang. before I reach the ponds so that I can diagonal in avoiding all of those rolling hill mounds.
Bushwhack up heading west a mile or so from Greeley ponds. I don't use the East Trail to Osceola. Head up before the ponds or keep right of the East Osceola trail and keep going west for the crag. It would be best to find it when the leaves are off the trees. Even in the winter climbers find themselves frustrated wandering around the base of this extrusion not knowing whether to head north or south. If the extrusion is broken up by small trees in slab gullies and mossy slab walls head south. The southern side of the ponds ledges should be approached from Waterville Valley. Their distances being about equal (2-3 miles).
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Black flies and Dearticks 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b X Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
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At lowest northern side of this section of rock get up onto it, to do a long technical friction traverse left south to a sustained crux near the end of pitch. You are now at the Bombay dike reached 30+ ft off the ground above a ceiling. Here on out the climb is very exposed at 5-5 up outside edges of this Bombay dike 100+ feat until it forks, one way is a vertical dead end and the other a hard pan dirt ramp. I was on a one way trip and had to get up to the forest. A lousy dangerous finish to a b...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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