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Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)

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Journeyman Crag, The 
West side of Greeley northern pond  

Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: West side of Greeley northern pond. East facing se...

Description 

Northwest ridge facing eastward has various ice climbs and is dependent on winter conditions to how thick the ice is. Lean snow years mean thickest ice here apparently.
Furthest south is one long pitch, dike. I had only heard of it but did find it and climbed it one summer. I called it 'Dear Ticks and Black Flies'. The dike was originally climbed in the late 1970's by the Rumney ice climbing locals. Today it is famously known as the 'Drool of the Beast', (WI5-). Way back then in the 1980's it was known as the Miniature (mini) Black Dike. N.E. Climbs has a decent photo of it and so does neice.com.
There is a very long wide cascade coming down from nearly the Summit of East Osceola trail(where the trail veers right and heads up steeply, the cascade stream bed is to the left. This stream bed is all ice when conditions are right (WI3) otherwise a long snow slog with a few ice bulges and a great view at the top. Much was no rope soloed by me in the early 1980's but not the dike. I had only one friend that climbed here with me. That was Tom Bowker. We did a plastic glass pitch somewhere in the middle of these ledges with no protection beyond one very small tree on it. Afterward there was a snow field to grade two bulges that we climbed no rope soloing. This year 2012 the conditions of the west facing ice wall that I can see have new lines to climb. It's February though and the conditions could change to being poorly climbable before March.
I invite you to take it all in. Greeley Pond is close to only the east facing wall. This wall has at least two climbs on it.


Getting There 

Hike on Greeley Ponds trail towards the ponds from the Kancamagus Highway. Before the ponds are reached keep looking up southwestward to see the ridge through the trees. In about 2 miles you'll reach the climbs.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)
Rick Barrett starting up the Drool

Drool of the Beast, (formerly known as The Mini Black Dike) WI5 PG13  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : West side of Greeley northe...
Past the last buttress with the big ice bulge (usually veraglass, super thick this year) is a hidden deep recess quite a ways south of it. At this recess is a large pillar (the crux). After the pillar enter the dike and continue up the steep chimney ice for another 130+ft. I never found it and that's good because there is no exit into the woods. No rope soloing this climb is a death wish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch) Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 29, 2012

Bradley, I think I got the sub areas re-ordered correctly and the routes in the correct section. Could you check for me and let me know if anything still needs to be moved? I'll leave it to you to edit the area descriptions since some of the sentences are no longer pertinent, and arrange the routes left to right when you get the chance. Thanks

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Dec 15, 2012

Thanks for the improvement Mark and the area doesn't need south of north greeley pond. The cascade is on the west side. I'm going to have too get some decent photos.