'The Greatest Route at Greyrock' is certainly one of nicest lines of the grade. It ascends the right side of the southeast slabs. Approach by the Greyrock summit trail. As it skirts around the southeast face keep hiking (farther than one would expect) until reaching a small aspen grove very near the base of the wall. Now hike back (left, south) along the wall, with a bit of log hopping and boulders. Find a flared crack that ascends up and right -- this crack is immediately right of a short left facing dihedral capped by a small roof (obvious) just off the ground. You can also recognize the route by the roof amidst the slab at the end of the second pitch.
P1: Crux right of the ground, a balancy jam or two and high steps gain the slabby crack above (5.8). The pitch follows this and several other intermittent cracks up the clean slab above (5.7-8). A few exit moves traverse left to an obvious ledge (not so visible from below).
P2: Traverse back up and right up a crack system that deposits one below the pretty overlap roof. Jam and grunt over this one, don't forget to smile, belaying immediately above on a small ledge (5.8).
P3: Easy cracks and slabs lead a full rope length to a large ledge area below a small dihedral (5.6).
P4: Stem up the dihedral (5.5) and climb easy ground nearly a full rope length to ledges just below the summit of Greyrock. Watch for rope drag and communication problems between the belays on the upper pitches.
Standard rack including good span of cams up to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot) is nice. Small cams and tri-cams set well in occasional flares and horizontals.
|By Chris R|
Sep 26, 2002
Super-fun first pitch. We started in the corner and pulled over the small roof (12' off the ground) into the maze of shallow cracks. P1 is sustained for the grade on superb quality granite. P2 crux move over the roof is about as easy as a roof move will be--the jugs are gigantic. Well worth the never-ending approach.
|By Clare Shemeta|
Sep 22, 2003
Some additions/clarifications/questions to route description:Pretty sure we were on P1 at least, the description matched exactly! P1: Crux right of the ground, a balancy jam or two and high steps gain the slabby crack above (5.8). CES: quite low angle, more of a face move (unprotected!!) to gain the Rt facing dihedral. Rating more like 5.7) The pitch follows this and several other intermittent cracks up the clean slab above (5.7-8) CES: no 5.8 on this pitch!. A few exit moves traverse left to an obvious ledge (not so visible from below). CES: this ledge is about 80 ft off the ground, to the left. Has a half dead juniper tree and dead wood on it. Go L onto the ledge and set a belay P2: Traverse back up and right up a crack system that deposits one below the pretty overlap roof. Jam and grunt over this one, don't forget to smile, belaying immediately above on a small ledge (5.8).CES: after the belay, there is a large crack/dihedral system going straight up to an overlapping "roof", 5.6ish. After the "roof" there is a low angle offwidth crack with minimal hands, good feet. Above this is another "roof", set belay near this roof. P3: Easy cracks and slabs lead a full rope length to a large ledge area below a small dihedral (5.6). P4: Stem up the dihedral (5.5) and climb easy ground nearly a full rope length to ledges just below the summit of Greyrock. CES: we didn't climb anything resembling this. For us, P4 started under this large roof. Clean, difficult crack just above, no chalk or any signs of climbing action. Tried it some, might go at 5.9ish? Instead, went left in break in R facing dihedral (5.6) then up a low angle wide crack with large grass patches to top and walk off. Nothing I'd call 5.8, but nice fun! Does anyone have a topo of this climb or of all greyrock?
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nice route with some diversity. Jesse's description of the pitches is well said. To add: pitch three is a prominent left-facing dihedral...the closer you get the more obvious it becomes. with [Luebben's] guidebook and this site description, routefinding should be much easier. For those who are headed to Greyrock for their first time, descents on this line (and others near) are via walk-offs. head northeast following rocks cairns and trail posts to a trail that has a switchback (to the southeast) which will spill you out near the base of the route.
|By Be Esperanza|
From: Asheville, NC
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I like to set up the first belay in a huge crack before you would cut left to the ledge. The ledge is a great belay spot, but you have to make a some what unpretected traverse left, then the next pitch has to start with an unprotected traverse back right. This climb has two great pitches and then a couple of easy ones. The roof on the second pitch has BOMBER jugs, and there is a great hold to help you clear it, but I'm not going to ruin it by telling you where they are!
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 28, 2005
Fun long trad route in the sun! Lots of 5.7 on first two pitches with a few 8'ish moves. 6'ish rope-stretching third pitch to 3rd/4th class terrain.
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2008
Climbed this yesterday. Little trouble with pitch one. I see some people posted that the start moves are unprotected, but we easily sank a well-purchased nut, and then went up the crack on the right side following the 'hand jams'. Stiff warm up after the hike. We stayed out of the dihedral, since there were no hand jams. It got interesting after this.
My partner led this and I am glad he did. He went over left, above start dihedral/roof, and followed the shallow seams a full rope length to a unprotected traverse to the large, rotten seam on the left. Small gear up to no gear on the traverse. There was no tree or log here at the belay. However, there was a sling, and there was a "few exit moves left", so we thought we were in the right spot. The rest of the climbing was straightforward, well-protected, through the obvious roof and two pitches to the top. The remainder of the climb was pretty much what we expected and inline with other posts, however we both agreed the first pitch was harder that what the consensus was. Credit card crimps and dime edges.
Looking at the pictures it appears that the climber is off to the right, and the 'top of pitch one' is down and right to where we ended. I recall joining this seam, but coming from the left and down. Where we supposed to be coming from the right? A little clarification here would be helpful.
I am sure many variations exist since we were not in a left-facing dihedral for the third pitch and certainly did not encounter a second "roof" above the obvious one from the ground. Maybe we did pitch one and are a couple of 'skirts', that is fine too. Just looking to know.
Overall, great rock, sweet views, nice hike.
|By tom selleck|
Jun 9, 2008
Pretty good route. Probably not the best choice for someone just breaking in to 5.8. First pitch was sustained and had a couple short runouts.Save a 2 camalot for the 5.8 roof.That is the longest hike I have ever done for 2 pitches of 5.8.
From: Loveland, Co
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Not what I expected. The route was good. Felt the roofs were easier than expected. In fact they were the fun parts when given the whole perspective of this route. The route itself was a bit sketchy due to the runouts, lack of pro, and the pendelum prone traverse. Why I rated it a 5.8+R for the leader.
The beta was good.
If you are going to look for this route, location beta is that when you get to a trail marker post right next to a group of 6 pines ((one looks like a slingshot(denises accord)) on the rt side of the trail. And a large boulder on the left, this is where you immediately scramble left up to the face. the route pic given is a good finder clue. Cant miss it.
Bring stoppers of med. size. And cams upto #1. 48" slings for no drag. Tricams good on this route as well for the bomber placements on the roofs.
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fun, easy classic for the grade. It protects well and doesn't deserve an R (or even PG13) rating. If you like this one, check out "A Quick One While She's Away" and "Jetstream Deluxe".
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Well-protected, but the cracks are mostly flared which can make placements slightly tricky.
Apr 28, 2013
Hey - Climbed the route today and the "Hero hold" was making very scary cracking/creaking noises... enough so that I did not even attempt to make the move.. I am 180...so not a huge fat-arsh... but I would be very careful if you do the roof move.... I ended up backing of and doing the 5.6ish moves to the right...to preserve life and limb....
|By Brody Hatch|
Jul 7, 2013
Climbed this route today with Nate Hansen and had a great time. It felt like a one pitch wonder to be honest. The first pitch is thin and confusing at times but fun. I ended up just setting up anchors in the giant crack instead of moving left to the ledge. The second pitch was just ok. It's really just the last couple moves over the roof that are challenging and fun (much grunting and smiling). Also, the jug/hero hold felt totally solid. The third pitch is a breeze. NOTE: on the third pitch about 10 feet below the small pine tree is a large rock that is loose and could be pulled off the wall, so be careful and try to avoid it. We ended up just soloing the fourth pitch to the top.