Lower crux is moving between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the upper crux is moving from the second to last bolt thru to the last bolt. Super crimpy, super sharp, powerful moves at the top. have shoes with good edging. Rest jug half way up on left in the crack.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 20, 2009 rating: 5.13a7c+29IX+E6 6c
video link of someone climbing the first 2/3 of Great White...
By J. Albers From: Colorado Aug 12, 2010 rating: 5.13a7c+29IX+E6 6c
I really liked this route - I thought it had great, continuous movement. Because it is reasonably technical climbing with lots of feet, it makes for a nice change of pace from the 'big move between good holds' type of route that seems to be common on a lot of other Rumney routes at the grade (e.g. Dynosoar). The Smith guide refers to resting in the chimney after the first crux, but I'm not sure why you would want to do that, especially considering there is a nice resting jug at the same height. For me, to keep the route more sustained and continuous (and not contrived), it seemed like grabbing a quick shake at the jug and then continuing on made for a nicer climb (and probably closer to 13a.) To each his own I guess...no matter how you climb it, it is a really enjoyable route.