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 ADVANCED
Main Wall
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Blackbeard's Tears T 
Great White S 
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Great White 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Upper part of the route from Blackbeard's Tears.

Description 

Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast. It made the R&I Tick List a while back...

Location 

Just right of Blackbeard's Tears. Climb L for 2 bolts then up amazing pockets.

Protection 

bolts


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By Lurker
Oct 27, 2014

New titanium glue-in bolts thanks to the ASCA. Hard work courtesy of Taylor, Dennis, and Tom.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 11, 2014

Thanks to you all for taking care of those old bolts on those climbs. It's good to have good pro.

Were you able to reuse the holes? What a lot of work! Did you scope - bolt any new routes as well? I hope so.

[That forbidding north side, left of the main wall awaits development. We always thought a traversing via ferrata accessing this part of the outcrop would be needed. We had the same thought about a bolt ladder to get to the west side of the South Footstep, just up the way.]

Anyway, you folks who have frequented, climbed, and now improved this special area, and other North Coast nooks, should be commended.