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Blackbeard's Tears T 
Great White S 
Humboldt Current S 
Lost At Sea S 
Mermaid, The S 
Pulling Teeth S 
Redwood Burl S 
Ride the Woody S 
Scared Straight S 
Scurvy S 
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 
Shrapnel S 

Great White 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig,Tim Wilhelmi
Page Views: 1,599
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Upper part of the route from Blackbeard's Tears.


Amazing climb that some say is the best 12b/c on the North Coast. It made the R&I Tick List a while back...


Left of Redwood Burl. Climb left, then up amazing pockets.



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By Lurker
Oct 27, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

New titanium glue-in bolts thanks to the ASCA. Hard work courtesy of Taylor, Dennis, and Tom.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 11, 2014

Thanks to you all for taking care of those old bolts on those climbs. It's good to have good pro.

Were you able to reuse the holes? What a lot of work! Did you scope - bolt any new routes as well? I hope so.

Anyway, you folks who have frequented, climbed, and now improved this special area, and other North Coast nooks, should be commended.
By Sic Nabo
Jul 30, 2015

Fitness exam! Aside from the boulder problem at the first two bolts, there are zero hard moves on this climb. However, if you lack the endurance, you don't have a chance. Thanks to recent ascents, much of the loose dust and debris has been scrubbed and the route is in prime condition. Excellent training route.

I recommend clipping long slings to the last three bolts on the the ramp before moving onto the overhang. This will save you from rope drag and a great deal of grief at the chains. Thanks to those who rebolted this beauty!

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