|Stone Mountain South Face
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This is the quintessential water groove route at Stone Mountain and like the guide book says...if your heart ain't racing and you ain't having fun...you must be dead.
Start from the very left edge of the Tree Ledge. Look for the second water groove past the Great Arch.
Pitch 1: Climb the water groove on the left side past 2 bolts, then step into the groove and climb past 2 more bolts to the anchor at a stance on the left of the groove. 5.9, 110 feet.
Pitch 2: Ready to get your groove on? Climb up the deepening groove past one bolt to another anchor on the left side of the groove. 5.8, 110 feet.
Pitch 3: Continue up the groove for 50 feet to the trees. 5.6, 50 feet.
Left edge of the Tree Ledge...second water groove...mmm....goood....
Take 4 quickdraws and something for the bolted belays...that is all you will need.
From: Decatur, GA
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
If you're looking for a hair-raising lead, Great White Way definitely fills the bill. I've never had to put as much trust in pure friction and footwork. What an exciting line -- I won't forget this one for a long time! Many thanks to Ben and Jody for letting me lead all three pitches.
More route details, for anyone who's interested:
I thought the hardest moves were at the start, right off the ledge. Fortunately, the first bolt can be clipped from the ledge -- this doesn't make the start any easier, but a lot less scary. The first three bolts are fairly closely spaced, so you probably won't want to get into the groove until you've clipped the third bolt. The fourth bolt -- much higher on the pitch -- is way off to the left and can't be clipped without moving out of the groove onto the face, which is pretty damn stomach-churning considering how run out you are at that point. The same is true of the P1 belay.
The second pitch in the deepening groove is much less tenuous than the first, but still not casual. Lots of runout leading up to the sole bolt, and from that bolt to the belay. Also, this pitch is probably closer to 150'. The third pitch is pretty much of a romp up to the tree island.
As to getting down, if you're there when it's not crowded, you can get away with rapping the route; first double-rope rap is from the rings at the top of P2 of Great Brown Way (a short distance right of the topout), which will get you to the P1 anchors for Great White Way; from there, one more rap brings you back to the tree ledge. However, if there's any chance of other climbers coming up from below, don't do this; instead go up and over the tree island to the Great Arch rap station.
From: The Deeper South
Jul 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
Kudos to JL for the lead...in Winter...in fingerless wool gloves!
From: Everett, wa
Mar 4, 2011
1 bolt in 110ft and no R rating? Even on slab a 100-150 ft rag doll would likely cause injury.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 21, 2011
Most/all routes at Stone Mountain have an implied R rating. They also use the running belay technique...ie...leader falls, you run...when possible.