By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Feb 28, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
If you're looking for a hair-raising lead, Great White Way definitely fills the bill. I've never had to put as much trust in pure friction and footwork. What an exciting line -- I won't forget this one for a long time! Many thanks to Ben and Jody for letting me lead all three pitches.
More route details, for anyone who's interested:
I thought the hardest moves were at the start, right off the ledge. Fortunately, the first bolt can be clipped from the ledge -- this doesn't make the start any easier, but a lot less scary. The first three bolts are fairly closely spaced, so you probably won't want to get into the groove until you've clipped the third bolt. The fourth bolt -- much higher on the pitch -- is way off to the left and can't be clipped without moving out of the groove onto the face, which is pretty damn stomach-churning considering how run out you are at that point. The same is true of the P1 belay.
The second pitch in the deepening groove is much less tenuous than the first, but still not casual. Lots of runout leading up to the sole bolt, and from that bolt to the belay. Also, this pitch is probably closer to 150'. The third pitch is pretty much of a romp up to the tree island.
As to getting down, if you're there when it's not crowded, you can get away with rapping the route; first double-rope rap is from the rings at the top of P2 of Great Brown Way (a short distance right of the topout), which will get you to the P1 anchors for Great White Way; from there, one more rap brings you back to the tree ledge. However, if there's any chance of other climbers coming up from below, don't do this; instead go up and over the tree island to the Great Arch rap station.
By Br'er Rabbit From: The Briar Patch Jul 14, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a R
Kudos to JL for the lead...in Winter...in fingerless wool gloves!